There are ( or at least were) more than 4,000 temples built during a huge frenzy of activity between the 11th and 13th centuries. The building was started under the command of King Anawrahta during the first Burmese empire and was continued by his successors. What gripped me though was that it doesn't sound like historians know what happened next - and why what must have been a fabulous city declined in the 13th century. One view is that hordes of Mongolians sent by kublai Khan attacked the city; an alternative theory is that the threat of invasion from China threw the empire into a panic and the Burmese all fled from the city. The British established a presence in the city in the 19th century finding a citywide neglect due to many earthquakes in the area.
Since 1975 though the area has seen significant restoration investment - I couldn't wait to get into it and see some of the temples.
It didn't take long for us to see just how a special a place this is - just on the taxi journey from jetty to hotel in New Bagan was passed at least 20 temples relatively close up, and the flat landscape revealed hundreds and hundreds. It would have to wait - we needed beer and a curry after our boat trip. A lovely little family restaurant more than provided that for us - and happy sleep followed.
The next morning our biggest decision was whether to cycle, e-bike or walk around the temples - after trying all 3 options - walking seemed safest for us 😀 we got a taxi to the entrance of ' Ananda Pahto' and our awe of this place began. This temple is currently being restored so not everything was visible to us but we did see 4 incredible 9m high buddhas's inside which was an impressive start. It was I think the most spiritual I've ever felt just walking around inside and outside the temple - so much so that I made an offering at the entrance.
We then did a circuit of the main old Bagan temples, all completely gorgeous and relatively empty. I calmed atop one to get a good overview - all you can see are hundreds and hundreds of temples all over the place. Incredible. We both loved the calm and peace around the place, and of course the friendly Burmese - always smiling never hassling you. We spend the rest of the day lunching ( TheMoon veggie cafe in old Bagan), relaxing back at the hotel and working out where to head for sunset.
Now sunset viewing is when the calm ends......it's as if tourists and locals arrive only for sunset and then disappear again. The little dusty streets become clogged with cars, bikes. Even the cows seem to be on the streets only at around 5.30. With this in mind I have some tips for sunset viewing - go early to get a spot, avoid the busy temples of Shwesandaw Paya and Pyathada Paya unless you get there early and just head to a quiet little temple on your own. On our second night we found a very special spot and just soaked it all up.
After another family run dinner in New Bagan it was early to bed, we had a 5am alarm call for ballooning the next day....more of that to follow.....
We stayed: Hotel Yardanabon New Bagan. Location quite good hotel just average - cheap though and nice pool
We ate: for dinner we went to Narahtheika restaurant - wonderful cheap food with a French twist,
Star beam bistro similar to Narantheika with the added advantage of several electricity power cuts during our dinner, the moon in old Bagan is a great veggie spot for lunches and smoothie
We loved: temples wise here were our favourites: Shwesandaw Paya and Pyathada Paya both in the daytime give fabulous views, Ananda Phato stunning spot with incredible buddhas's. Sulamani Phato is gorgeous - probably my favourite.
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