Saturday, 2 September 2017

Florida keys road trip

Not sure if I've mentioned it but Miami is goddam hot during the summer. Hot like nothing I've ever experienced - those that have travelled with me will know that I can be pretty good at arriving at a beach early and staying until the sunsets. In Miami I'm lucky to be able to last more than an hour at the beach before I jump back into Air Con.

As a result of ' the heat' I've been avoiding exploring Miami and hadnt even managed a trip to the Florida keys yet. Fortunately I had the perfect reason to change that - some lovely friends were getting married in Key West.

A road trip plan was hatched, and one sunny Saturday morning - country music blasting - Anna, Audrey, Megan and I were on our way.

Our first stop was the Caribbean looking Morada bay cafe on Islamorada where my first Pina Colada of the year was happily drunk admiring the gorgeous view. Things were off to a good start. We arrived at the end of the keys - Key West about 7 hours after leaving Miami - ouch. This also meant we had a bit of a scramble into wedding outfits and arrived a bit dishevelled just in time for the lovely wedding of Chris and Jess at Ernest Hemingway's house on the island.

We spent the rest of the evening hopping on a trolley and all heading down to the lively Mallory square to take in the sunset, and then partied back at the couple's house on the island. Fun night!

The next morning I spent some time discovering the island, I went to the most southernmost point buoy in the USA - only 90 miles from there to Cuba! I enjoyed seeing Truman's little White House, loved discovering all the huge fish you could see from the Marina. Food wise - Emily told me to chocolate dipped slice of key lime pie from Kermitt's - sickly but tasty!

I am loving discovering USA.....






Friday, 1 September 2017

Sea plane adventures in Vancouver

I was really getting into this Pacific Northwest region - so after our time in Seattle and the San Juan islands was excited to see it from the Canadian side. The excellent Bolt Bus got us into Vancouver in four hours and apart from a pretty grim conversation with your classic miserable immigration official it was a great afternoon.

An hour later after a trip on a train and seabus we were in our hotel in Lonsdale Quay on the north of the city. We could already see how beautiful this place was - lovely natural harbour, snow capped mountains behind. It reminded me of Sydney but with added attraction of mountains - perhaps even prettier.

On our first night we took things easy - it was national burger day - and the perfect place to celebrate this was at Tap & Barrell - a pub with a gorgeous patio overlooking the city. There was also an outdoor spin class taking place across from the pub - so we had the added bonus of watching how the Vancouver locals get their adrenaline rush in the summer.

The next day we explored Lynn Canyon Park - a lovely park with a suspension bridge and walking trails. Definitely one to get the heart racing - but an enjoyable way to spend the morning. The afternoon we headed back on the seabus this time to explore Gastown and Chinatown. Gastown is filled with lovely boutiques, pavement cafe's and ice cream shops. On our way to Chinatown we somehow walked into Crack alley - an uncomfortable number of locals all off their heads - it didn't feel like a great place to be so Chinatown will have to wait until another time!

Next we were back on the buses to get to Kitsalano Beach - where our Air BnB was for the next 3 nights - we lucked out - although a bit far from the city - really cool little area.

Our first full day in Vancouver was epic - we headed into Stanley park to walk the city walls - what a park it is - bigger than NYC's central park - it takes up a full tip of central Vancouver - it has an outdoor swimming pool, a lake , you can walk / cycle the city walls for a glorious 8.8km - heaven. We recovered with wine and a salmon burger at a lovely spot just outside the park Cardero's Marine Pub and admired the yacht action. From there the excitement really kicked in - we kept seeing seaplane's taking off in the city. I presumed it would be ridiculously expensive so other than saying ' I'd really like to do that one day' thought nothing more of it. I think though the beauty of the park made us look into it - a phone call later and we were booked onto the 2pm 30 minute Classic Panorama trip with Harour Air. My god what a great decision. After ' checking in' and getting our boarding pass we were last to board our little seaplane - but ended up with window seats, a lovely captain and some blue skies to get into.

The next 30 minutes I did not stop grinning, the sensation of taking off and landing into water is something everyone should experience. Vancouver is also an incredible place to do this trip - after the joy of going over the harbour - we flew over some of the surrounding mountains - green lakes surrounded by snowcapped mountains all in a 5 minute flight of the city. What a place!

Sad for the journey to end we celebrated with a gelato from Vancouver's finest - Bella Gelateria - and took in the Olympic cauldron. The day was topped off with a picnic down at Jericho beach watching the sun go down.

On Sunday we headed to Granville Island - home to a food market and lots of little craft stores. a really nice place to spend a morning - lots going on. After purchasing our picnic we got one of the tiny little False Creek Ferries to the park next to the maritime museum. Amusingly there was a pink salmon celebration going on in the park - is this city for real? Picnic eaten with the added bonus on seals swimming in the harbour nearby it was time to walk onto Kitsalano beach and time for a swim. The pool at Kits beach is very special - saltwater, heated and 137 metres long.  My swim there was glorious - admittedly you need to learn the lane etiquette pretty quickly but once I had - goggles on and in the zone I loved getting my lengths in.

Before our time was up - we had an evening at Fable in Kitsalano - and a friend of mine I'd met travelling in Africa came to join us. The perfect way to end what had been an incredible time in Vancouver.

It goes without saying that I will be returning.





Goonies film location spotting in Oregon

As a kid I remember going to a friends birthday party at a cinema and watching the Goonies - so imagine my delight when I discovered lots of the locations are in Oregon - and I could see them as part of this trip.

After a few days in the city , we planned on going to Cannon Beach - a spot featured in the film. We got the bus there and the route took us through the lovely looking Tillamook State Forest - the countryside in Oregon all seems stunning. Definitely a place to return to. After an easy 90 minute journey we are dropped off in the one street Cannon Beach - like going back in time - this was going to be an easy place to spend some time.

We dropped our bags off and headed down to the beach. And what a beach.....9 miles long and with the huge Haystack rock in the middle. Regularly voted one of the world's best beaches - it is utterly lovely. Haystack itself is full of wildlife - with nesting sites for Puffins and various seabirds, and rock pools filled with Sea anemones. While we were there clouds dropped up and down over the rocks - added a moody feel to the place.

We didn't do much other than walk the beaches, grab fish and chips and wander the main street.

I then spent a few hours looking into buying a house there - always a sign of a special place....



Doughnuts and Food Trucks in Portland

So after our epic 5 days in Vancouver, we headed on the Amtrak Cascades train down to Portland. I love a long train journey - memories of journeys taken in Thailand, China and Sri Lanka always flood back. This journey was to take 8 hours - and was a pricey $150 in business class - but had the added excitement of leaving one country ( Canada) and arriving in the US on the same train.

The train journey was lovely - apart from a particularly annoying Canadian who seemed intent on talking very loudly on his phone sat in front of us - once I learned to block his voice out I really enjoyed the trip. We passed by lots of stunning coastal scenery ( the town of Bellingham looked like a good place to stay). US immigration boarded the train to quickly check passports but other than that - an uneventful enjoyable journey.

Our destination, Portland in Oregon had me very excited. I've heard so much about the place - about all the good coffee, the food trucks and generally the laid back feeling the town has - all with the added bonus of very few trump supporters. In short it exceeded my expectations - unlike any other city in the US I've visited - it has a really nice combination of feeling like a big city - but with lots of small town features. People are all very chatty, the shops and restaurants are mainly all independents - there is a nice easiness to the place. On the downside they clearly also have a big homeless people issue - more so than any of the other US cities - which I just find incredibly sad.

When you get down to the Willamette river in the city it's then that you see the industrial side to the city - the city itself has 12 bridges spanning the river - and grew as a hub for shipping timber. We took a bus ride to the north of the city to cross over one of these - St John's - a particularly pretty art deco bridge. The city isn't pretty though - it's gritty, a bit dirty - when we were there they were having some terrible forest fires and the city was cloaked in ash and haze from the smoke.

We kept ourselves busy in town mainly by eating - the city is famous for it's doughnut shops, food trucks and coffee shops. Perfect.

Some favourite's we found were:
Nong's Khao Man Gai - Food Truck on Alder Street - so good I had it twice - poached chicken with rice, coriander, cucumber and peanut sauce - simple and delicious. Served in butchers paper.
Blue Star Doughnuts - Washington Street - Unbelivable - described as doughnuts for grown up's - have the crème brulee
http://www.bluestardonuts.com/
Voodoo Doughnuts - Lots of locatons, more gimmicky than Blue Star and for me not as tasty - but the Voodoo Doll is a very funny concept - a pretzel stick to stab all the raspberry jam in his torso. Brilliant.
https://www.voodoodoughnut.com/

We entertained ourselves at the many craft beer places and an amazing old cinema called Bagdad.
https://www.mcmenamins.com/bagdad-theater-pub

We stayed:
http://dossierhotel.com/ a gorgeous new hotel bang in the centre, lovely room, opposite all the food trucks.