Tanning in Turkey

I'd like to think I'm a pretty adventurous traveller. I've always had the urge to explore, find the best coffee, the most unusual angle to take a photo etc etc. Sometimes though you find yourself somewhere and realise how content you could be simply staying put. The jetty into the Mediterranean at the front of our hotel in Torba was such a place. Perfection with inviting white sunbeds, emerald green sea warm after months of sun and even lots of little fish to watch from the comfort of your sunbed. The chances of me fully exploring the bodrum peninsula dwindled with every single cafe frappe the tanned Turkish waiters produced at my side.

Easy days rolled by, waterside dinners of calamari and octopus were devoured ( if you haven't had a grilled octopus tentacle in Turkey - get on it) Bottles of Efes were guzzled. We simply were.

It was an email from the elder female fox telling me about Ephesus that kicked me back into action. I'm glad it/ she did. Bodrum has a lot more to offer than just sun, sea and sea bass. We started gently with a morning at Bodrum castle. Difficult to find ( look for the underwater archaeology museum entrance) but well worth the 25 Lire entrance. Dating back to 1437 it was very Game of Thrones ( a good look for any historical building right now) and the perfect place for me to a) get my 10,000 steps in b) appreciate the stunning views from each of the castle's towers. The English one is incredible. 

The following day while Becky was being pummelled in the local Hamam I got my rusty haggling skills out in the bazaar. Turns out Bodrum is pretty good for shopping - I'm currently waiting for a pair of earrings to be made by a little jeweller I found. Dangerous. Come Day 6 we were on a bus to Ephesus ....but man those lazy days were good...and the memory of that jetty should stay a while...

We stayed: a BA holidays deal at Torba Han in Torba about 5km from Bodrum - wonderful and around £350 in Sept flights & B&B

We got around: by Dolma minibus, a bargain at 3 lire a journey ( 70p)

We ate: lots of good place - Muusto on the main waterfront was excellent, as was Limani Kofteli on the water. Cafe Passion was just ok. In Torba go to Gonca Balik which is a bit of a walk but completely worth it - tables over the water and incredible meze - expect wine, pudding, calamari etc all for under £20

We shopped: all over!

September trip to Skye

I think it was watching Skyfall that inspired a trip to the Scottish Highlands. Bond in his trunks striding out of the Caribbean seems appropriate in spring, come Autumn I'm more into the idea of him greeting me with a tartan blanket and a whisky soaked hot chocolate.....

So here we are flying into Inverness airport in mid September for 4 days of the northwest of Scotland. I'd booked us a lovely little Scandi chic house on the island of Skye which is a few hours drive from Inverness. Philippa had flown in from NY the previous day and was knackered; I'd had 3 months in a new job full of 9pm finishes - rest was needed. Our drive was easy and beautiful - who knew Scotland was this goddam beautiful.the roads were surrounded by forests, mountains and heather. We drove onto Skye already happier. When we pulled into the drive of our home ' Skeabost Wood Cottage' we were very, very happy. The perfect house - cosy with stunning views from every window. Em got busy lighting the fire. Philippa got into her PJ's and I got the red wine open.........

Day 2 had us visiting Skye's castle ( Dunvegan) - run down but with lovely gardens. We then headed to the far west of Skye for a walk down to Neist point and lighthouse. 10.000 steps done we lunched at Skye's oldest bakery ( you can tell...and not in a good way.....) and made our way home before a Scottish dinner in the nearby pub. Lovely. 

Our third day had us driving up to the Totternish peninsula where we had stunning views of the Old Man of Storr - a 50m high pinnacle rock along with the gorgeous cliffs which go up this Coast. We lucked out by stopping at a cool little cafe called single track. It was started with crowd funded support last year and serves incredible drinks and homemade food, the views are awesome. We arrived at The Three Chimneys for our swanky lunch shortly after. A gorgeous little cottage restaurant - I had the seafood menu, Philippa and Em both had the set lunch. We feasted on local croft eggs, Scottish beef, marmalade pudding, cranachan and freshly caught scallops. Lovely. 

Our final day on Skye was full of blue skies - we started with an amazing drive on the road from lower breakish to kylerhea - easily the most beautiful road I've ever had the pleasure to drive on. I channeled my best rally driver mode and got us there safely. We did a walk to an otter hide which was gorgeous. After this we headed for lunch at the Oyster Shack just past the Talksker Distillery. I had 3 oysters ( (£1 each!) and a seafood platter and chips (£10) - it was all wonderful. We then waddled down the road to the distillery for a tour of the distillery, sipped a dram of talisker 10 year old and are definitely leaving Skye a lot more chilled out than we left London. Perfect. 

We stayed: Skeabost Wood Cottage, sleeps 4, £100/ night - a wonderful place

We ate: The Three Chimneys - Michellin starred but relaxed cosy room, £37.50 set lunch. Recommend.

The Oyster Shack - bargain seafood served from a shack just past the Talisker Distillery. BYO.

Single Track -amazing coffee shop on the Totternish peninsula, best hot chocolate the girls have ever had. My coffee was great and the homemade lunches looked awesome. You have to go.

Summer in Stockholm

In my twenties I did a round the world trip and had 6 weeks in New Zealand with three of the loveliest young men I've ever met. They were Swedish, and since then the good people of Sweden have pretty much been my favourite European nation outside of my native England. I've had many fun weekends in Sweden visiting them at their homes ( Gothenburg), their university town ( Lund) and in their first jobs in Stockholm. They have taught me little Swedish songs to accompany traditional crayfish dinners, forced me to drink lots of Schnapps and given me a basic vocabulary ( Skol being the main one). 

They have ' grown up' now though. jesper has a big job in Hong Kong and Klas in Gotenburg so this visit to Stockholm I would experience without my local guides. We booked a trip over our long weekend in August, so the weather should be on our side. Our base for the weekend was set to be a lovely seaside hotel called Hotel J - just outside the city centre but close enough by ferry or bus if we wanted to explore Stockholm. 

We arrived late at night, but the next morning after a mega smorgasbord breakfast we got tickets to the ferry into Stockholm from Nacka Strand. I love ferries - when I lived in Sydney I could entertain myself for days just travelling around on the ferries. I'm pleased to report that swedens public ferries are absolutely gorgeous. All polished wood inside and chic navy seats, with glorious views from the outdoor top deck. Em and I smiled and soaked up the sun. Now in the centre we walked around the island of Skeppsholmen passing over a lovely bridge, we looked at the modern art gallery and just generally chilled in the sunshine. We wandered over into Sodermalm and through the little streets of Gamla Stan. City life over we hopped on the ferry back to hotel j and settled into an evening of Meatballs at their waterside restaurant - Restaurant J, and enjoyed the balcony of the terrace. Em even managed to go for a run in the forest.

The next day we headed into the Swedish archipelago visiting the island of Vacholm and spent the day walking around the island, reading and drinking at the very cute Magasinet in the centre of the island. 

Last day involved shopping, drinking in the beautiful park of Djurgarden and more of those meatballs.

I didn't come home with a more enhanced vocabulary but I sure came home browner, more chilled and even more in love with Sweden. Skol to that. 

We stayed:http://www.hotelj.com/en/

We ate:http://www.hotelj.com/en/restaurang