So we made it. I hasten to add it wasn't without a bit of drama. My desire to bring the Caribbean home with me ( ie 3 bottles of rum) didn't quite go according to plan. I hadn't counted on our bags having to be re security checked at what must be the worlds worst airport - the shocker that is Miami International. After a good hour clearing immigration, our bags had been thrown off the conveyor. You can guess what comes next. The 7 year rum didn't get to age much longer. I had one sticky, highly flammable backpack. It also smelt like I was a drunk. Customs were going to pounce on me.
Oh well, no cheeky shots of rum after dinner at mine then..........
We arrived in sunny London, my welcoming committee took a raincheck but Philippa had some lovely hello's :-) { mine had spent all of Monday painting my flat so I sure ain't complaining - thanks kids}.
It's always lovely coming home to London, and to arrive back on a Sunny day is even better. I've spent all afternoon indulging myself with the following :-)
Drinking tea - a priority
Trying to stop all of my clothes from smelling like a rum factory
Eating smoked salmon
Drinking Nespresso
And my personal favourite - listening to Wild Beasts really loudly in my underwear
I've popped out and lots of people smiled at me and looked at my legs. Got home feeling quite chirpy and smug - but looking at my legs ibthink they were just looking at how they hadn't been shaved in a while. God it's a drag being somewhere high maintenance. You're going to tell me next I need to firstly cut my hair, and secondly start brushing it. Jeez......
It's a small price and London it's good to be back - you may be high maintenance but you sure are bloody beautiful
X
Friday, 30 March 2012
Thursday, 29 March 2012
Final night in Nica
So we're back in the big bad city of Managua. After reading about lots of people being robbed in Taxi's I had my fingers crossed. But of course we were fine, I'm getting very cocky now but I really don't think these cities are as bad as people make out. The days of me stuffing money in my bra are thankfully ( for the money's sake) behind us.
Philippa had already said we deserved a nice night on our last night, so we booked into a hotel called Casa Naranja - top end in lonely planet no less. We arrived and they bought us over fresh chilled juices. We're not used to this :-) The bathroom had actual hot water, flannels and room to have a little dance in the shower. Better than my flat! We like this place. I'm not known for my love of showering but I decided to use the shower not once but twice. This place must be special.
After congratulating ourselves on our good fortune we headed out up to a Peruvian restaurant called La Terraza. Jess had enjoyed the ceviche we had on the islands, and it originated in Peru - so ceviche us up. The place was lovely - we had our ceviche de camarones - and it was as juicy, zesty and firey as we'd hoped. Philippa had an ice cold glass of Sauvignon Blanc as her starter - piss head. When I saw Jugo de Maracuja on the menu I fell in love with the restaurant. For anyone who hasn't had a freshly juiced Passion fruit juice before -I'm telling you sort it out. Heaven in a glass. My brazil girls will testify to this.
Bellies full it was back to our plush abode.
Final task - buy lots of bottles of rum - get on a plane - and try to not get robbed on the way there. Simple.
X
Philippa had already said we deserved a nice night on our last night, so we booked into a hotel called Casa Naranja - top end in lonely planet no less. We arrived and they bought us over fresh chilled juices. We're not used to this :-) The bathroom had actual hot water, flannels and room to have a little dance in the shower. Better than my flat! We like this place. I'm not known for my love of showering but I decided to use the shower not once but twice. This place must be special.
After congratulating ourselves on our good fortune we headed out up to a Peruvian restaurant called La Terraza. Jess had enjoyed the ceviche we had on the islands, and it originated in Peru - so ceviche us up. The place was lovely - we had our ceviche de camarones - and it was as juicy, zesty and firey as we'd hoped. Philippa had an ice cold glass of Sauvignon Blanc as her starter - piss head. When I saw Jugo de Maracuja on the menu I fell in love with the restaurant. For anyone who hasn't had a freshly juiced Passion fruit juice before -I'm telling you sort it out. Heaven in a glass. My brazil girls will testify to this.
Bellies full it was back to our plush abode.
Final task - buy lots of bottles of rum - get on a plane - and try to not get robbed on the way there. Simple.
X
My love affair with Lobster
When i was planning this trip, initially on my own my eye was drawn to some little islands off the Nicaraguan coast. The name alone made me want to visit them, happily you could go to either big corn or little corn.
Several stories about how the islands got their name exist. The first was that the British buccaneers who used the islands to restock their fleets simply misspelled the Spanish word for meat 'carne'. The second is more simply that corn was grown on the islands.
So the name sounded good, and Jess and Philippa were happy to go there. What a result - big corn was a complete and utter delight. An hours flight from Managua and you arrive into a tiny airport surrounded by turquoise ocean, palm trees and smiling creole islanders. We had 5 days here, and i can safely say it's the most wonderful island I've ever been to.
Every night we had lobster - in fact I think I've had my crustacean fill for the year - how can anywhere else top here? A couple of times we had it at Island Style in Long Bay which was delicious. We also tried comedor Mari's in Sally peachie on the north coast - Mari served food on her porch - our lobster served with coconut rice and beans and 2 ice cold Tona's came to £7. On our last day for lunch we headed to Fisher's Cove in the big town of Brig Bay. I say town, let's go with settlement the while islands have 8,000 people living on them. This place though overlooked the main fishing pier ( no sign of Rudi, clearly out catching lobster) - and was a great spot to watch how things happen on the island. We saw a young boy fishing with a simple line off the pier - we were all didappointed when he lost the snapper he finally caught. The boy needs to get a net. We also saw fishermen gutting fish in the sea, and quite a lot of men just sat in the bar drinking rum. Can't beat island life.
My lobster when it arrived was essentially the most indulgent Thai green curry I've ever had. Lobster, coconut milk, peppers and chilli. They call it Caribbean style. It was beautiful. I wish Ali could have tried it. What a way to say goodbye to the island.
The taxi back was full of the classic views of huge grandma type women sat in a rocking chair in a porch of her bright green shack. My photos don't capture it well enough.
This place is a wonder
I wonder if I could adjust to living in a 5km long island? If they got rid of the sandflies I reckon I could. Gemma's Guesthouse sound ok?
X
Several stories about how the islands got their name exist. The first was that the British buccaneers who used the islands to restock their fleets simply misspelled the Spanish word for meat 'carne'. The second is more simply that corn was grown on the islands.
So the name sounded good, and Jess and Philippa were happy to go there. What a result - big corn was a complete and utter delight. An hours flight from Managua and you arrive into a tiny airport surrounded by turquoise ocean, palm trees and smiling creole islanders. We had 5 days here, and i can safely say it's the most wonderful island I've ever been to.
Every night we had lobster - in fact I think I've had my crustacean fill for the year - how can anywhere else top here? A couple of times we had it at Island Style in Long Bay which was delicious. We also tried comedor Mari's in Sally peachie on the north coast - Mari served food on her porch - our lobster served with coconut rice and beans and 2 ice cold Tona's came to £7. On our last day for lunch we headed to Fisher's Cove in the big town of Brig Bay. I say town, let's go with settlement the while islands have 8,000 people living on them. This place though overlooked the main fishing pier ( no sign of Rudi, clearly out catching lobster) - and was a great spot to watch how things happen on the island. We saw a young boy fishing with a simple line off the pier - we were all didappointed when he lost the snapper he finally caught. The boy needs to get a net. We also saw fishermen gutting fish in the sea, and quite a lot of men just sat in the bar drinking rum. Can't beat island life.
My lobster when it arrived was essentially the most indulgent Thai green curry I've ever had. Lobster, coconut milk, peppers and chilli. They call it Caribbean style. It was beautiful. I wish Ali could have tried it. What a way to say goodbye to the island.
The taxi back was full of the classic views of huge grandma type women sat in a rocking chair in a porch of her bright green shack. My photos don't capture it well enough.
This place is a wonder
I wonder if I could adjust to living in a 5km long island? If they got rid of the sandflies I reckon I could. Gemma's Guesthouse sound ok?
X
Hasta Luego Central America
So it's come to this. The end of a journey. After 8 amazing weeks we've reached the end. It's a combination of bring ready to come home, but being sad at the same time.
Central America has been amazing, although not quite what I expected. I expected it to be a bit rougher and more difficult to travel in, it hasn't been. I definitely expected more people - in some respects this has been great ( empty beaches!) but at times I've missed having lots of travellers around to have a giggle with. What has been completely wonderful though has been the authenticity of everything we've done - I really feel we've got under the skin of the place and have met some lovely locals. We haven't once been ripped off, had anything bad happen or even really come across anyone rude. it's been a joy.
So where did I leave my travelling heart? It would have to be Guatemala - it ticks all the boxes for me - mountains, beautiful friendly locals, lots of colour, random animals everywhere and crucially it's cheap. However I've also loved, loved, loved having some beach time and seeing the untouristy side of the Caribbean has been utterly priceless. The corn islands were remote, authentic and beautiful. Caye caulker in Belize I would return to in a heartbeat, and as for Utila - I want to go back and do a diving course with that hot French instructor.
One other pleasant surprise for me - the last time I went on a big trip ( 10 years ago kids) I was newly single for the first time in 7 years and travelling totally sorted me out. I came back confident, assertive(!) and happy.
This time I haven't changed at all - and I don't want to - it's made me realise that I'm a pretty sorted tough cookie - and very happy just as I am*
My final photo sums it up - hair all over the place but loving windswept las penitas beach in Nicaragua.
See you all very soon,
Gem xxx
* any of a lottery win, hot French guy moving in next door and a kick arse new job opportunity wouldn't be turned down though
Central America has been amazing, although not quite what I expected. I expected it to be a bit rougher and more difficult to travel in, it hasn't been. I definitely expected more people - in some respects this has been great ( empty beaches!) but at times I've missed having lots of travellers around to have a giggle with. What has been completely wonderful though has been the authenticity of everything we've done - I really feel we've got under the skin of the place and have met some lovely locals. We haven't once been ripped off, had anything bad happen or even really come across anyone rude. it's been a joy.
So where did I leave my travelling heart? It would have to be Guatemala - it ticks all the boxes for me - mountains, beautiful friendly locals, lots of colour, random animals everywhere and crucially it's cheap. However I've also loved, loved, loved having some beach time and seeing the untouristy side of the Caribbean has been utterly priceless. The corn islands were remote, authentic and beautiful. Caye caulker in Belize I would return to in a heartbeat, and as for Utila - I want to go back and do a diving course with that hot French instructor.
One other pleasant surprise for me - the last time I went on a big trip ( 10 years ago kids) I was newly single for the first time in 7 years and travelling totally sorted me out. I came back confident, assertive(!) and happy.
This time I haven't changed at all - and I don't want to - it's made me realise that I'm a pretty sorted tough cookie - and very happy just as I am*
My final photo sums it up - hair all over the place but loving windswept las penitas beach in Nicaragua.
See you all very soon,
Gem xxx
* any of a lottery win, hot French guy moving in next door and a kick arse new job opportunity wouldn't be turned down though
Tuesday, 27 March 2012
Warning we have a floater in the water...
Eugh no, just me....
It's relaxing this island living....
Two days to come up with a reason to stay. Perhaps I should go round to Rudi's for dinner tonight?
X
It's relaxing this island living....
Two days to come up with a reason to stay. Perhaps I should go round to Rudi's for dinner tonight?
X
A budget breaker
I'm not sure I've talked about me being a tight arse with budgets yet? It's my finance background...but poor Philippa has had to cope with 8 weeks of me writing down what we've spent each day. She's humoured me in this and tried to appear interested.
Anyway update for you - we've spent £2,300 so far this trip - not bad for 8 weeks doing lots of amazing things hey. Anyway because we've done so well last night there was no expense spared. We got a taxi to a place called Princesca de la Isla - a small guesthouse run by an Italian couple on the island. The taxi was an adventure in itself - half of it was along the beach. The sun was putting on a great show when we got there - and in keeping with the no expense spared we had Gin & Tonics, sat on a log and watched the sun do it's light show for us. Our chef was busy preparing our four courses ( crucially for Philippa one of these involved cheese) which was accompanied by a beautiful Italian white wine, a mosquito coil and a table on the beach.
A cracker of a Caribbean evening, a very well spent $40
X
Anyway update for you - we've spent £2,300 so far this trip - not bad for 8 weeks doing lots of amazing things hey. Anyway because we've done so well last night there was no expense spared. We got a taxi to a place called Princesca de la Isla - a small guesthouse run by an Italian couple on the island. The taxi was an adventure in itself - half of it was along the beach. The sun was putting on a great show when we got there - and in keeping with the no expense spared we had Gin & Tonics, sat on a log and watched the sun do it's light show for us. Our chef was busy preparing our four courses ( crucially for Philippa one of these involved cheese) which was accompanied by a beautiful Italian white wine, a mosquito coil and a table on the beach.
A cracker of a Caribbean evening, a very well spent $40
X
Sunday, 25 March 2012
Meeting the locals.....
I like to chat, I get it from my very sociable parents. So far the island has been unbelievably relaxing, but somewhat lacking in local flavour. This could easily be resolved by a Sunday afternoon trip to ' Island Style'. We'd been to island style before we escaped the unfinished 'spa' hotel - but we timed it wrong. Once the sun goes down the island goes into total darkness. The lobster we had was amazing, but left us all wandering what it actually looked like.
Anyway so we figured we could go for lunch - see the food - drink Tona - listen to the crashing waves. Sundays are also the day the locals go ( after repenting their sins at church that morning) and drink copious amounts of rum.
We arrived, bagged a beachside table and noticed that the table to the left included 4 men and worryingly 3 litre bottles of flor de cana. Beers arrived ( happy to report that Jess is starting to match my drinking pace) - lobster orders placed. It didn't take long for the ' interacting with the locals' to commence. My eyes were drawn to 3 of the men moving the chair containing man number 4 into the shade. Man number 4 had passed out - we found out later that he'd been drinking since Saturday morning. I'm guessing he'd missed church. The other 3 locals then tried to offer us shots of rum and we got chatting. There was one creole - a lovely fisherman called Rudi , and two Spanish guys Francisco and Enrique. Rudi was a tall, lithe guy - easy on the eye - and talking to him was lovely. He told us all about his family, life as a fisherman, how he loved meeting new people. He loved his island and he was incredibly sweet. Every time he touched my arm I felt a bit funny, and he touched my arm a lot :-)
Anyway lobster came, we had about 10 minutes of food heaven, and that's when unfortunately drunk Spanish guy woke up. He stumbles over, promptly falls over and then starts to strip off in front of us. He gets down to his briefs ( shudder, not even boxers) and then stumbles down to the ocean to presumably fall into that. Which he does. It's very funny watching him trying to stand up for about 5 minutes. Unfortunately the next 30 minutes he was trying to speak to Jess in a drunk spanish/ english combo and generally being very annoying.
This did give Rudi time to invite me round to his for a 'rundown' tomorrow night. I told him it was too hot for running, but it's actually a local kind of hot pot of lobster, fish, plantain and coconut milk. He told me he lived alone and he'd get the fish fishing that day. What did i think?
Apparently I thought it was a bad idea, and I should be sensible and going round to Rudi's shack for dinner wouldn't be a good idea.
A decision I may well regret
Photos of Rudi and the pissed Spaniard to follow....
X
Anyway so we figured we could go for lunch - see the food - drink Tona - listen to the crashing waves. Sundays are also the day the locals go ( after repenting their sins at church that morning) and drink copious amounts of rum.
We arrived, bagged a beachside table and noticed that the table to the left included 4 men and worryingly 3 litre bottles of flor de cana. Beers arrived ( happy to report that Jess is starting to match my drinking pace) - lobster orders placed. It didn't take long for the ' interacting with the locals' to commence. My eyes were drawn to 3 of the men moving the chair containing man number 4 into the shade. Man number 4 had passed out - we found out later that he'd been drinking since Saturday morning. I'm guessing he'd missed church. The other 3 locals then tried to offer us shots of rum and we got chatting. There was one creole - a lovely fisherman called Rudi , and two Spanish guys Francisco and Enrique. Rudi was a tall, lithe guy - easy on the eye - and talking to him was lovely. He told us all about his family, life as a fisherman, how he loved meeting new people. He loved his island and he was incredibly sweet. Every time he touched my arm I felt a bit funny, and he touched my arm a lot :-)
Anyway lobster came, we had about 10 minutes of food heaven, and that's when unfortunately drunk Spanish guy woke up. He stumbles over, promptly falls over and then starts to strip off in front of us. He gets down to his briefs ( shudder, not even boxers) and then stumbles down to the ocean to presumably fall into that. Which he does. It's very funny watching him trying to stand up for about 5 minutes. Unfortunately the next 30 minutes he was trying to speak to Jess in a drunk spanish/ english combo and generally being very annoying.
This did give Rudi time to invite me round to his for a 'rundown' tomorrow night. I told him it was too hot for running, but it's actually a local kind of hot pot of lobster, fish, plantain and coconut milk. He told me he lived alone and he'd get the fish fishing that day. What did i think?
Apparently I thought it was a bad idea, and I should be sensible and going round to Rudi's shack for dinner wouldn't be a good idea.
A decision I may well regret
Photos of Rudi and the pissed Spaniard to follow....
X
Here come the coconuts
I'm sitting here in a Hammock enjoying a Caribbean breeze while I write this. I've learned some interesting things about my self from Amigas Jess and Philippa over the last few days.
In no particular order:-
I can relax in water apparently like no other - says Philippa. I do love to float, hands resting on tummy, I can float for hours
I can get changed into a bikini and be in the ocean in record breaking time. Also from Philippa. Same applies to swimming pools.
I love acting like a complete and utter idiot at times - so when I saw two green coconuts on the beach earlier - my first instinct was to pose with them. For photos. Like you do.
Lobster is my new favourite food - ideally served Caribbean style - from the aptly named Island Style on long beach. The accompanying fried plantains sealed the ' favourite food' deal
What I read into the above is that I'm pretty well suited to living by the sea, and indeed on an island.
When I add into the mix that I'm getting quite partial to the easy smiles and voices of the island men we've been meeting I reckon we could be more specific.
Anyone fancy visiting me in the corn islands? Great lobster
X
In no particular order:-
I can relax in water apparently like no other - says Philippa. I do love to float, hands resting on tummy, I can float for hours
I can get changed into a bikini and be in the ocean in record breaking time. Also from Philippa. Same applies to swimming pools.
I love acting like a complete and utter idiot at times - so when I saw two green coconuts on the beach earlier - my first instinct was to pose with them. For photos. Like you do.
Lobster is my new favourite food - ideally served Caribbean style - from the aptly named Island Style on long beach. The accompanying fried plantains sealed the ' favourite food' deal
What I read into the above is that I'm pretty well suited to living by the sea, and indeed on an island.
When I add into the mix that I'm getting quite partial to the easy smiles and voices of the island men we've been meeting I reckon we could be more specific.
Anyone fancy visiting me in the corn islands? Great lobster
X
A magical swim
Warning I'm gushing - no snide comments, wisecracks or even a hit of self deprecation.
In fact I suspect this is all getting rather dull readers, so I'll keep this brief.
My 7am swim was accompanied by a coconut, a few fish - and a fishing boat with 3 very friendly fisherman wishing me a good morning with that lovely creole accent of theirs.
My friends I could get into Island living
X
In fact I suspect this is all getting rather dull readers, so I'll keep this brief.
My 7am swim was accompanied by a coconut, a few fish - and a fishing boat with 3 very friendly fisherman wishing me a good morning with that lovely creole accent of theirs.
My friends I could get into Island living
X
Saturday, 24 March 2012
Time for another frolic...
So here we are. Big Corn island - it's under an hours flight from the capital Managua - the flight was relatively unexciting. The islands pretty unexciting too, but in a really good way.
Our first stop was long bay beach - to a resort called Sea Star Spa. Turned out not to be an accurate name. Perhaps unstylish, unfinished, unimpressive would have been better. But the beach, and indeed the sea are a delight. Amazing waves, crystal clear water, beautiful sand and the cleanest beach we've seen this holiday. It didn't take me long to go for a play in the waves ( or a frolic as I like to call them).
In the afternoon we hunted for accommodation options more suitable for 3 London girls - and found them on the other side of the island. We were moving to picnic beach.
The only thing I'm sad to leave are the waves - very quiet on this side. I've got wifi to play with instead.
The view's not bad either....
X
Our first stop was long bay beach - to a resort called Sea Star Spa. Turned out not to be an accurate name. Perhaps unstylish, unfinished, unimpressive would have been better. But the beach, and indeed the sea are a delight. Amazing waves, crystal clear water, beautiful sand and the cleanest beach we've seen this holiday. It didn't take me long to go for a play in the waves ( or a frolic as I like to call them).
In the afternoon we hunted for accommodation options more suitable for 3 London girls - and found them on the other side of the island. We were moving to picnic beach.
The only thing I'm sad to leave are the waves - very quiet on this side. I've got wifi to play with instead.
The view's not bad either....
X
Thursday, 22 March 2012
7 days
Oh dear how did this happen? This time in 7 days we'll be getting ready to catch a plane London bound.........
Ignoring this fact for now......let's focus on the present. Right at this very minute I'm sat in a chair, feet up on a stool with a 180 degree view of water ( not an Ocean but a lake). To my rear is a huge perfectly conelike volcano. I can hear a howler monkey, endless birds. Oh and horses and cows are in the water. I am, as they say, at one with nature.
Where is this wonderful place? It's an island called Isla de Ometepe and it's south east of Granada and is in the middle of Lake Nicaragua ( the biggest lake in central america). The write up to this island is good - it's on the shortlist for the new 7 natural wonders of the world. It has not one but two volcanoes on the island, and from where we are staying you can see both. Apparently you have to visit it.
The ferry ride over here was gorgeous - the volcanoes make a stunning backdrop. Unfortunately lots of the accommodation options we tried were full - so we tried a new ( and expensive) finca up towards Santa Domingo beach. It's fair to say it was remote - we had a 10 minute drive off road through a plantain um plantation before we got here. Initially we thought we'd made a mistake, our host didn't exactly bowl us over with an enthusiastic welcome and we seemed to be the only guests. But hey we were here so we made the most of it. We took a walk down towards the main beach area. It was amazing, no tourists, instead we had friendly locals washing their clothes in the freshwater lake, we had abandoned horses drinking at the waters edge. Kids swimming with their friends. We even walked past a goat and a rather porky pig. Still no gringos. This place was wonderful.
We found a local bar, ordered two Tona's and remarked on our good fortune. Only then the insects came. My god and they came in their hundreds. They literally swarmed us. I went for a swim to escape temporarily.
We walked back a lot quicker than the walk there.........turns out the little sandfly type insects don't bite - and are a small price to pay for such an amazing place.
Tonight we head back to the big ugly city of Managua to meet our friend Jess. She comes bringing gifts of English chocolate and fresh novels :-)
X
Ignoring this fact for now......let's focus on the present. Right at this very minute I'm sat in a chair, feet up on a stool with a 180 degree view of water ( not an Ocean but a lake). To my rear is a huge perfectly conelike volcano. I can hear a howler monkey, endless birds. Oh and horses and cows are in the water. I am, as they say, at one with nature.
Where is this wonderful place? It's an island called Isla de Ometepe and it's south east of Granada and is in the middle of Lake Nicaragua ( the biggest lake in central america). The write up to this island is good - it's on the shortlist for the new 7 natural wonders of the world. It has not one but two volcanoes on the island, and from where we are staying you can see both. Apparently you have to visit it.
The ferry ride over here was gorgeous - the volcanoes make a stunning backdrop. Unfortunately lots of the accommodation options we tried were full - so we tried a new ( and expensive) finca up towards Santa Domingo beach. It's fair to say it was remote - we had a 10 minute drive off road through a plantain um plantation before we got here. Initially we thought we'd made a mistake, our host didn't exactly bowl us over with an enthusiastic welcome and we seemed to be the only guests. But hey we were here so we made the most of it. We took a walk down towards the main beach area. It was amazing, no tourists, instead we had friendly locals washing their clothes in the freshwater lake, we had abandoned horses drinking at the waters edge. Kids swimming with their friends. We even walked past a goat and a rather porky pig. Still no gringos. This place was wonderful.
We found a local bar, ordered two Tona's and remarked on our good fortune. Only then the insects came. My god and they came in their hundreds. They literally swarmed us. I went for a swim to escape temporarily.
We walked back a lot quicker than the walk there.........turns out the little sandfly type insects don't bite - and are a small price to pay for such an amazing place.
Tonight we head back to the big ugly city of Managua to meet our friend Jess. She comes bringing gifts of English chocolate and fresh novels :-)
X
Wednesday, 21 March 2012
Oh Bryony...
Not strictly travel related this blog......
Yesterday I thought it was high time I checked into my favourite columnist and see what she's been up to. It was my mum who first introduced me to her ( She writes for the daily telegraph, a newspaper that isn't exactly top of mind when choosing something to read. However the torygraph is de rigeur at Hartley parental towers). Her name is Bryony Gordon and she's a delight. She writes a column called how the other half live. One of the writers lives in the country and has endless kids, sheep and cats - bryony lives in London and has endless late nights, meaningless male encounters and fun. I could relate.
My mum and I got into a nice routine on a Sunday. Mum would ring early to make sure I was out of bed ( readers, I'm 35 years old bear in mind...) and say the magic words ' do you want to know what bryony has been up to'. Did I ever.
Bryony and I seemed to lead parallel lives. Her very funny stories about nightmare men made me howl with laughter. She's rubbish with technology, can't cook and isn't very good at cleaning her flat. One of these rings very very true. But it was definitely the horrors of the male species which were brilliant to read.
I actually went out with a journalist at said torygraph who sat next to Bryony. In true fan style he passed on the message that mother and daughter Hartley were big fans of her work.
Alas on checking in with Bryony yesterday there was very little making me laugh in her column. The chat was all about her buying a shared iPad for her live in boyfriend. Another about them disagreeing on how to spend their time in New York and how they were holidaying in France with family Gordon this summer.
Bryony - you're going to have to get a new column. I can't relate to this, in fact it makes me feel quite ill.
Mums no need to call next Sunday - Can you call the Editor instead - your loyal readership must be able to pull some strings. Get me bryony's gig. I won't let people down ;-)
X
Yesterday I thought it was high time I checked into my favourite columnist and see what she's been up to. It was my mum who first introduced me to her ( She writes for the daily telegraph, a newspaper that isn't exactly top of mind when choosing something to read. However the torygraph is de rigeur at Hartley parental towers). Her name is Bryony Gordon and she's a delight. She writes a column called how the other half live. One of the writers lives in the country and has endless kids, sheep and cats - bryony lives in London and has endless late nights, meaningless male encounters and fun. I could relate.
My mum and I got into a nice routine on a Sunday. Mum would ring early to make sure I was out of bed ( readers, I'm 35 years old bear in mind...) and say the magic words ' do you want to know what bryony has been up to'. Did I ever.
Bryony and I seemed to lead parallel lives. Her very funny stories about nightmare men made me howl with laughter. She's rubbish with technology, can't cook and isn't very good at cleaning her flat. One of these rings very very true. But it was definitely the horrors of the male species which were brilliant to read.
I actually went out with a journalist at said torygraph who sat next to Bryony. In true fan style he passed on the message that mother and daughter Hartley were big fans of her work.
Alas on checking in with Bryony yesterday there was very little making me laugh in her column. The chat was all about her buying a shared iPad for her live in boyfriend. Another about them disagreeing on how to spend their time in New York and how they were holidaying in France with family Gordon this summer.
Bryony - you're going to have to get a new column. I can't relate to this, in fact it makes me feel quite ill.
Mums no need to call next Sunday - Can you call the Editor instead - your loyal readership must be able to pull some strings. Get me bryony's gig. I won't let people down ;-)
X
Tuesday, 20 March 2012
A smoothie and a smile
Often I find the best life experiences are the simple one's. For me they are unlikely to happen up a volcano/ down a cave/ off piste. After a morning cruising the beautiful ' las istelas' islands on lake Nicaragua ( central america's biggest lake), seeing lots more spider monkeys and drinking beer at 10am it dawned on me this is our last afternoon in Granada. Bugger.
With that in mind we had to go back to the place that had made us smile the most. On our first day here we'd admired the views from the run down but beautiful Iglesia de la Merced - and wandered into a hammock workshop. It turned out to be not just any hammock workshop - but a wonderful not for profit organisation called Tio Antonio. They provide opportunities for some high risk disadvantaged Nicaraguans - and all of the boys we met in there were lovely. Happily Philippa bought a beautiful handmade hammock and then we saw a beautiful cafe at the side of the building. This cafe ' Cafe de la somisas - smiles cafe' is run by deaf and mute young people. They have sign language painted on the Walls, the menu's are set up so you can point to your order, and there are areas on your table where you can let the staff know what you want. For example where the toilets are, or if you can have the bill. Our waiter that first day had the most amazing smile I have ever seen in my life. A joyful smile - with happiness filling his eyes. We ordered, loved our drinks, paid and left feeling really damn happy to have found the cafe, and to have been served by Nicaragua's most beautiful soul. So on our last day we had to go back didn't we? Our Chico was there, we ordered the same thing.
I'm going to miss him tomorrow
I urge anyone reading this - please visit this cafe, buy a hammock, spend some money. It will be worth it
X
Smiles cafe - Calle Real Xalteva - in between the Iglesia de la Merced and Parque central.
www.tioantonio.org/eng/eng_index.html
With that in mind we had to go back to the place that had made us smile the most. On our first day here we'd admired the views from the run down but beautiful Iglesia de la Merced - and wandered into a hammock workshop. It turned out to be not just any hammock workshop - but a wonderful not for profit organisation called Tio Antonio. They provide opportunities for some high risk disadvantaged Nicaraguans - and all of the boys we met in there were lovely. Happily Philippa bought a beautiful handmade hammock and then we saw a beautiful cafe at the side of the building. This cafe ' Cafe de la somisas - smiles cafe' is run by deaf and mute young people. They have sign language painted on the Walls, the menu's are set up so you can point to your order, and there are areas on your table where you can let the staff know what you want. For example where the toilets are, or if you can have the bill. Our waiter that first day had the most amazing smile I have ever seen in my life. A joyful smile - with happiness filling his eyes. We ordered, loved our drinks, paid and left feeling really damn happy to have found the cafe, and to have been served by Nicaragua's most beautiful soul. So on our last day we had to go back didn't we? Our Chico was there, we ordered the same thing.
I'm going to miss him tomorrow
I urge anyone reading this - please visit this cafe, buy a hammock, spend some money. It will be worth it
X
Smiles cafe - Calle Real Xalteva - in between the Iglesia de la Merced and Parque central.
www.tioantonio.org/eng/eng_index.html
The gate to hell
This afternoon we embarked on a trip to a place the spanish called the gate to hell. After seeing it I see where they were coming from. We went on a night tour to the Parcue Nacional Volcan Masaya. That's right - another Volcano.
This one appealed to me as apparently you can drive right up the crater's edge ie no walking. In true central American style it wasn't quite the cruisey afternoon I was expecting. The volcano is the most heavily venting volcano in Nicaragua. In 2001 an eruption hurled heated rocks 500m into the air - hitting cars and narrowly missing people. This probably explains why you now have to park facing the exit - ready to drive literally for your lives ( where was Ryan Gosling's character in drive when I needed him). The other surprise at the volcanoes edge was the issue of gas masks. My god and if they'd have been effective they would have been great. The very free flowing sulphur gases were very strong, choking in fact - you can stand about 5 minutes but that's about it. We did a few hikes around the crater, saw sunrise and then headed underground to explore some of the lava tubes 50m underground. We saw some sleeping baby bats ( surprisingly cute at 2 weeks old). We also sat in the dark at the exit of a cave home to 35,000 big adult bats. You could feel them rushing past your heads.
Eugh.
Now I truly feel I'm probably at my volcano limit - I don't think anything will ever top the Aeolian islands off the northern coast of Sicily. Their volcano errupts sending lava into the air every night. A pretty nice natural fireworks display from a sailing boat. I admire Nicaragua's effort in trying to beat mighty Sicily - but so far it's failing.
Our next destination - Isla de la ometepe - is am island which has not one but 2 volcanoes on. Let's see what kind of show they put on.
X
This one appealed to me as apparently you can drive right up the crater's edge ie no walking. In true central American style it wasn't quite the cruisey afternoon I was expecting. The volcano is the most heavily venting volcano in Nicaragua. In 2001 an eruption hurled heated rocks 500m into the air - hitting cars and narrowly missing people. This probably explains why you now have to park facing the exit - ready to drive literally for your lives ( where was Ryan Gosling's character in drive when I needed him). The other surprise at the volcanoes edge was the issue of gas masks. My god and if they'd have been effective they would have been great. The very free flowing sulphur gases were very strong, choking in fact - you can stand about 5 minutes but that's about it. We did a few hikes around the crater, saw sunrise and then headed underground to explore some of the lava tubes 50m underground. We saw some sleeping baby bats ( surprisingly cute at 2 weeks old). We also sat in the dark at the exit of a cave home to 35,000 big adult bats. You could feel them rushing past your heads.
Eugh.
Now I truly feel I'm probably at my volcano limit - I don't think anything will ever top the Aeolian islands off the northern coast of Sicily. Their volcano errupts sending lava into the air every night. A pretty nice natural fireworks display from a sailing boat. I admire Nicaragua's effort in trying to beat mighty Sicily - but so far it's failing.
Our next destination - Isla de la ometepe - is am island which has not one but 2 volcanoes on. Let's see what kind of show they put on.
X
Monday, 19 March 2012
This speaks for itself
Can I live here forever please?
Charming locals, amazing banana smoothies, and beautiful buildings around every corner
Granada I've fallen for you. I think it could last.
X
Charming locals, amazing banana smoothies, and beautiful buildings around every corner
Granada I've fallen for you. I think it could last.
X
Sunday, 18 March 2012
The sweatfest continues
My god Granada is hot too...........
Fortunately we have a pool - didn't take me long to get in - priorities and all that. I pranced about in the pool for a blissful 30 minutes - and then decided I really ought to go and take a look at Nicaragua's tourist Gem.
Our hotel appears to be a bit of a gay cruising centre. Nothing wrong with that - but a bit odd to see lots of 60yr old American males, and 18 year old Nicaraguan males.
This blog has no beginning, middle or end. Let's blame the heat. My brains fried.
We're off now in search of mojitos, steak and photo opportunities. I'll tell you all about lunch with Cameron Diaz tomorrow
X
Fortunately we have a pool - didn't take me long to get in - priorities and all that. I pranced about in the pool for a blissful 30 minutes - and then decided I really ought to go and take a look at Nicaragua's tourist Gem.
Our hotel appears to be a bit of a gay cruising centre. Nothing wrong with that - but a bit odd to see lots of 60yr old American males, and 18 year old Nicaraguan males.
This blog has no beginning, middle or end. Let's blame the heat. My brains fried.
We're off now in search of mojitos, steak and photo opportunities. I'll tell you all about lunch with Cameron Diaz tomorrow
X
Saturday, 17 March 2012
The youth of today....
On my morning walk, tidal wave dodging and grinfest this morning along the beach I got chatting to a local lad called Carlos. He was carrying lots of shell necklaces - the sort of thing you'd buy wear for a day get home and then quickly realise the error of the purchase. He wasn't a great salesman our Carlos - I didn't need to sprout my usual ' no Gracias señor ( although in his case Chico) - he didn't try and flog me anything. He was too concerned with the sores on my arms ( apparently I need to burst them, it will hurt but be worth it. Impressively this knowledge was gained through hand signals only). He also told me my skin was ' Blanco'
The bloody youth of today - 6 weeks I've been working on this. *
Carlos looked horrified when I told him that in two more weeks I'd be the colour he was. Well it was either horror or him cringing at my god awful Spanish. I'll probably never know. But what I do know is that if there's one promise I can keep - it's that of turning from Blanco to sunkissedo. I've got a long running bet with my dad on it. When do we get to the Caribbean ( again)?
X
* this is almost as insulting as the time an Austrian backpacker approached me on the ferry to Uruguay from Burnos Aires. I presumed he wanted to engage in the usual traveller chit chat of did I know of anywhere to stay/ where had I been etc etc. Not unlike the usual freshers week A Levels shit chat.
Alas he was actually after suntan creme. His exact line was:-
' hello do you speak English? You look like you probably have suncream on you - can I borrow some'
I took it to suggest I was pale and obviously had to have suncream, that or I looked ' sensible'. Neither are flattering options. He wouldn't have approached Angelina Jolie with the same lines. Harumph.
The bloody youth of today - 6 weeks I've been working on this. *
Carlos looked horrified when I told him that in two more weeks I'd be the colour he was. Well it was either horror or him cringing at my god awful Spanish. I'll probably never know. But what I do know is that if there's one promise I can keep - it's that of turning from Blanco to sunkissedo. I've got a long running bet with my dad on it. When do we get to the Caribbean ( again)?
X
* this is almost as insulting as the time an Austrian backpacker approached me on the ferry to Uruguay from Burnos Aires. I presumed he wanted to engage in the usual traveller chit chat of did I know of anywhere to stay/ where had I been etc etc. Not unlike the usual freshers week A Levels shit chat.
Alas he was actually after suntan creme. His exact line was:-
' hello do you speak English? You look like you probably have suncream on you - can I borrow some'
I took it to suggest I was pale and obviously had to have suncream, that or I looked ' sensible'. Neither are flattering options. He wouldn't have approached Angelina Jolie with the same lines. Harumph.
Beach then?
This was last nights view. Might as well go for a stroll along it then hey.....
Contented face
X
Contented face
X
Friday, 16 March 2012
Around central america with the girl next door
Today I've been mostly laughing. My head off. Out loud.
We've left sweaty Leon, after a delicious sandwich from the gorgeous bakery called bread and peace ( pan y paz). We headed for the fishing village of Las Penitas 20 km's down the road.
Turns out it's a delight - roaring waves, dirty volcanic sand and not a soul in sight.
Got to be honest and fess up that I haven't really done too much exploring. As soon as we arrived at Quetzal Playa, our hotel, my eyes were drawn to a book titled ' The Full Montezuma - around central america with the girl next door'. It's now 5pm I'm half way through and i haven't laughed this much since the ' bowling shane' night with Helen and Rachel.
Our travel writer is a very funny Australian called Peter Moore, and reading it I have to say I feel we should meet. He's totally on my wavelength. Wonderfully sarcastic, a bit cruel, takes the piss - he's generally ace. A particular passage about him being accosted by a drunk at a bus intersection in Guatemala particularly chuckled me:-
' you are going to all the wrong places' says the drunk. You should come to my village. We have everything you could ever want there. Onions, broccoli, potatoes'
' I made the mistake of interrupting and telling him that if I'd wanted to see a selection of fruit and vegetables I could have simply wandered down to my local supermarket'
Book to be continued, I wonder if he does end up with the girl next door?
X
We've left sweaty Leon, after a delicious sandwich from the gorgeous bakery called bread and peace ( pan y paz). We headed for the fishing village of Las Penitas 20 km's down the road.
Turns out it's a delight - roaring waves, dirty volcanic sand and not a soul in sight.
Got to be honest and fess up that I haven't really done too much exploring. As soon as we arrived at Quetzal Playa, our hotel, my eyes were drawn to a book titled ' The Full Montezuma - around central america with the girl next door'. It's now 5pm I'm half way through and i haven't laughed this much since the ' bowling shane' night with Helen and Rachel.
Our travel writer is a very funny Australian called Peter Moore, and reading it I have to say I feel we should meet. He's totally on my wavelength. Wonderfully sarcastic, a bit cruel, takes the piss - he's generally ace. A particular passage about him being accosted by a drunk at a bus intersection in Guatemala particularly chuckled me:-
' you are going to all the wrong places' says the drunk. You should come to my village. We have everything you could ever want there. Onions, broccoli, potatoes'
' I made the mistake of interrupting and telling him that if I'd wanted to see a selection of fruit and vegetables I could have simply wandered down to my local supermarket'
Book to be continued, I wonder if he does end up with the girl next door?
X
I appear to have caught something
It's probably not you lot I should be telling, but my personal doctor otherwise known as Robby.
The animals of central america seem to love me. Nearby ants flock to sting me whenever I approach. Yesterday after swimming in the laguna, the very second I got out my feet were covered in ants biting me as if their lives depended on it. They paid of course - I squashed them. But I am now struggling to walk and have angry huge bites around both feet.
Then a cockroach type insect had a go at my thigh.
I also appear to have the bubonic plague on my arm - three huge, ugly, puss filled sores which I think must began extreme allergic reaction to some other bloody insect.
It's that or three aliens growing in there
It's not all good in paradise you know
X
The animals of central america seem to love me. Nearby ants flock to sting me whenever I approach. Yesterday after swimming in the laguna, the very second I got out my feet were covered in ants biting me as if their lives depended on it. They paid of course - I squashed them. But I am now struggling to walk and have angry huge bites around both feet.
Then a cockroach type insect had a go at my thigh.
I also appear to have the bubonic plague on my arm - three huge, ugly, puss filled sores which I think must began extreme allergic reaction to some other bloody insect.
It's that or three aliens growing in there
It's not all good in paradise you know
X
Thursday, 15 March 2012
We need to talk about Hector
After a deliciously cool night ( Air con me up baby) we are off to visit the old city of Leon and swim in a volcano crater lake today. Like you do.
Our driver picks us up in a suitably hard core looking 4x4, and we go to pick up our guide. Now before I get onto our guide, let me give you my initial perceptions of the Leonese. It's possibly a tough act to follow after the charming wonderful El Salvadorians, but the Nicaraguans just don't give off friendly vibes. I think, like Leon they take a bit of time to warm up - they certainly don't greet you warmly.
That is they didn't until Hector turned up. My god that man could sell you anything. Utterly charming. He laughed, he made jokes, he had copious amounts of energy. He was also a very gifted guide. Now part of me likes to think the good in people , but there is another ' been there done that' condescending side of me that's cynical as hell thinking ummmm is this guy for real, or is he after a tip.
I'm going to let you decide. Here are some examples of his uber guide antics:-
1. Mention you are from a family of 11 brothers and sisters and you all live under the same roof.
2. Find out what interests your clients. It didn't take Hector long to work out I loved food. He picked mangos out of the tree for me. We shared a cashew fruit. The three of us picked a bag of mangos for him to take home to his family. I had happy memories of strawberry, blackberry and mushroom picking with my mum and brother. The man quite frankly played a blinder
3. Show your caring side. After getting us an amazing drink made out of ground up Jicara seeds, and a local specialty - a tortilla based Quesillo, he offers to give our leftovers to a homeless man. I know. Hero.
4. Be enthusiastic. He loves Nicaragua. He loves nature. He loves live music. The man loves everything it seems.
5. Be well liked. The locals seemed to love him. Much hugging, shoulder slapping, smiling happened. Our driver ( Oscar) and he joke away.
As if all this isn't enough - he then plays his wild card. I suspect the wild card comes out when he's guiding females. To ensure a massive tip - on arrival at the gorgeous crater lake ( laguna assososca) strip off to your tight boxers. Pose and fully show off an unbelievably toned body. Dive into the water, and spend the next 30 mins showing your amazing body off by lieing on a tree on the water's edge.
The man should give lessons.
Didn't work on Heartless of course.
Can someone lend me some money for a drink - I appear to be out of cash
X
Our driver picks us up in a suitably hard core looking 4x4, and we go to pick up our guide. Now before I get onto our guide, let me give you my initial perceptions of the Leonese. It's possibly a tough act to follow after the charming wonderful El Salvadorians, but the Nicaraguans just don't give off friendly vibes. I think, like Leon they take a bit of time to warm up - they certainly don't greet you warmly.
That is they didn't until Hector turned up. My god that man could sell you anything. Utterly charming. He laughed, he made jokes, he had copious amounts of energy. He was also a very gifted guide. Now part of me likes to think the good in people , but there is another ' been there done that' condescending side of me that's cynical as hell thinking ummmm is this guy for real, or is he after a tip.
I'm going to let you decide. Here are some examples of his uber guide antics:-
1. Mention you are from a family of 11 brothers and sisters and you all live under the same roof.
2. Find out what interests your clients. It didn't take Hector long to work out I loved food. He picked mangos out of the tree for me. We shared a cashew fruit. The three of us picked a bag of mangos for him to take home to his family. I had happy memories of strawberry, blackberry and mushroom picking with my mum and brother. The man quite frankly played a blinder
3. Show your caring side. After getting us an amazing drink made out of ground up Jicara seeds, and a local specialty - a tortilla based Quesillo, he offers to give our leftovers to a homeless man. I know. Hero.
4. Be enthusiastic. He loves Nicaragua. He loves nature. He loves live music. The man loves everything it seems.
5. Be well liked. The locals seemed to love him. Much hugging, shoulder slapping, smiling happened. Our driver ( Oscar) and he joke away.
As if all this isn't enough - he then plays his wild card. I suspect the wild card comes out when he's guiding females. To ensure a massive tip - on arrival at the gorgeous crater lake ( laguna assososca) strip off to your tight boxers. Pose and fully show off an unbelievably toned body. Dive into the water, and spend the next 30 mins showing your amazing body off by lieing on a tree on the water's edge.
The man should give lessons.
Didn't work on Heartless of course.
Can someone lend me some money for a drink - I appear to be out of cash
X
Wednesday, 14 March 2012
Nica time
So El Salvador has gone - it reminded me of Wales - so I'm not overly sad to have left. Nice people, but not enough going on.
We have arrived - after a 3 country border day ( el sal, Honduras, Nicaragua) into Leon in Nicaragua. In theory I should love Leon - big fans of both the movie and the London food outlets of the same name. Many a happy Sunday spent in the Spitalfirlds branch of Leon nibbling ( wolfing) a brownie.
Turns out Leon hasn't been an instant love affair - but it's a grower ( not unlike boyfriend number 3 - but let's not digress). It's got some truly amazing buildings - but they are all a bit rundown and in a state of ruin. Same with the local shops, restaurants. But you know what it's lovely - really charming. We've spent some time in some gorgeous old fashioned cafe's with no desire to modernise- and I love it. The views from the top of the battered cathedral are amazing, volcanoes in the distance, markets below. You just need to watch the roof doesn't collapse while you walk - it really needs a bit of maintenance.
Leon's one negative though is the heat - it's very very oppressively hot.
If and when you come - get either a pool or air con. I'm sounding decidedly American tourist aren't I? Shucks
X
We have arrived - after a 3 country border day ( el sal, Honduras, Nicaragua) into Leon in Nicaragua. In theory I should love Leon - big fans of both the movie and the London food outlets of the same name. Many a happy Sunday spent in the Spitalfirlds branch of Leon nibbling ( wolfing) a brownie.
Turns out Leon hasn't been an instant love affair - but it's a grower ( not unlike boyfriend number 3 - but let's not digress). It's got some truly amazing buildings - but they are all a bit rundown and in a state of ruin. Same with the local shops, restaurants. But you know what it's lovely - really charming. We've spent some time in some gorgeous old fashioned cafe's with no desire to modernise- and I love it. The views from the top of the battered cathedral are amazing, volcanoes in the distance, markets below. You just need to watch the roof doesn't collapse while you walk - it really needs a bit of maintenance.
Leon's one negative though is the heat - it's very very oppressively hot.
If and when you come - get either a pool or air con. I'm sounding decidedly American tourist aren't I? Shucks
X
Sunday, 11 March 2012
What is the Spanish for you have got to be kidding me
Warning readers - I'm having a rare grumpy day. The reasons will become apparent soon enough.
The story commences :-
So Juayua is a nice enough town - and the people are lovely but if I'm being brutally honest there isn't really enough going on here for me. I think this is partly due to the elections which are taking place today, and has meant a 48 hour ban on sale or consumption of Alcohol.I'd heard the food festival here was a huge party, it turned out to be pretty quiet. Anyway we thought we'd go for a walk to some nearby waterfalls today, and then make our way towards Nicaragua on Monday. The place we are staying at ( Hotel Anuhuac) organises tours. Simples. We spoke to Cesar who runs the hotel ( and speaks perfect English) and I explained that I was scared of heights so we just wanted a walk to some of the falls - not to jump 60metres into some. I was really, really clear about this.
Curious then this morning to see our very lovely local guide putting rope into his backpack.
Anyway off we go with Carlos - the fabulous four. The sun was out, the locals were as ever smiley and welcoming. We meet up with our other guides - two beautiful dogs at Carlos's house and we begin descending. It was another crimes against fashion day - as I will NEVER purchase any of those travelling trousers that unzip into shorts ( practical, but way too far on the butch lesbian scale for my liking) - I was sporting walking shoes, socks and a pair of shorts which being honest looked a lot better on me in my 20's. Expecting to perhaps get a bit wet I'd got my waterproof bag, bikini and shit loads of water. I was well prepared for a nice stroll.
The terrain starts to get more challenging - and was definitely off piste. The ledges started getting narrower, the sheer drops deeper, much grabbing onto trees was happening and a lot of ' oh my *ucking god' was going on in my head. So much so I decided to try and ask Carlos quite how much more challenging things were going to get - I got a smile and the word poco. Ah great just a little more then. Cool.
He neglected to mention the absail down a 30metre waterfall with just a rope to cling onto and no safety net. Or the two hours of scrambling over boulders and wading through thigh high water. Still the genius of a man had got me to do it, and he was lovely and helped as much as he could. Outwardly I smiled. Inwardly I was upset. I did actually cry at the bottom of the repelling ( is that what you call it) - but I don't think anyone saw - and brave face went back on shortly afterwards.
The thing with extreme sports is that I just don't get it. Never have. Never will. I don't feel the need to throw myself out of a plane, or off a mountain. I don't want to climb into a ravine, or go canyoning. That's not to say I don't like adventure or like being outdoors. Quite the opposite. I just don't need to feel my heart pounding with the rush of adrenaline. I'm more stroll than roll.
Anyway the day picked up - the final waterfalls we got to ( which are a nice cruisey 15 minute walk from town) were beautiful. I swam. I spent about 20 mins looking right up into the water falling down on my face. Natures hydrotherapy pool was absolutely brilliant. Stunning.
I just wouldn't want to scale down the other bloody waterfall ever again
My pants may be radical, I am most definitely not
X
The story commences :-
So Juayua is a nice enough town - and the people are lovely but if I'm being brutally honest there isn't really enough going on here for me. I think this is partly due to the elections which are taking place today, and has meant a 48 hour ban on sale or consumption of Alcohol.I'd heard the food festival here was a huge party, it turned out to be pretty quiet. Anyway we thought we'd go for a walk to some nearby waterfalls today, and then make our way towards Nicaragua on Monday. The place we are staying at ( Hotel Anuhuac) organises tours. Simples. We spoke to Cesar who runs the hotel ( and speaks perfect English) and I explained that I was scared of heights so we just wanted a walk to some of the falls - not to jump 60metres into some. I was really, really clear about this.
Curious then this morning to see our very lovely local guide putting rope into his backpack.
Anyway off we go with Carlos - the fabulous four. The sun was out, the locals were as ever smiley and welcoming. We meet up with our other guides - two beautiful dogs at Carlos's house and we begin descending. It was another crimes against fashion day - as I will NEVER purchase any of those travelling trousers that unzip into shorts ( practical, but way too far on the butch lesbian scale for my liking) - I was sporting walking shoes, socks and a pair of shorts which being honest looked a lot better on me in my 20's. Expecting to perhaps get a bit wet I'd got my waterproof bag, bikini and shit loads of water. I was well prepared for a nice stroll.
The terrain starts to get more challenging - and was definitely off piste. The ledges started getting narrower, the sheer drops deeper, much grabbing onto trees was happening and a lot of ' oh my *ucking god' was going on in my head. So much so I decided to try and ask Carlos quite how much more challenging things were going to get - I got a smile and the word poco. Ah great just a little more then. Cool.
He neglected to mention the absail down a 30metre waterfall with just a rope to cling onto and no safety net. Or the two hours of scrambling over boulders and wading through thigh high water. Still the genius of a man had got me to do it, and he was lovely and helped as much as he could. Outwardly I smiled. Inwardly I was upset. I did actually cry at the bottom of the repelling ( is that what you call it) - but I don't think anyone saw - and brave face went back on shortly afterwards.
The thing with extreme sports is that I just don't get it. Never have. Never will. I don't feel the need to throw myself out of a plane, or off a mountain. I don't want to climb into a ravine, or go canyoning. That's not to say I don't like adventure or like being outdoors. Quite the opposite. I just don't need to feel my heart pounding with the rush of adrenaline. I'm more stroll than roll.
Anyway the day picked up - the final waterfalls we got to ( which are a nice cruisey 15 minute walk from town) were beautiful. I swam. I spent about 20 mins looking right up into the water falling down on my face. Natures hydrotherapy pool was absolutely brilliant. Stunning.
I just wouldn't want to scale down the other bloody waterfall ever again
My pants may be radical, I am most definitely not
X
Saturday, 10 March 2012
Scorchio and Scorpion
It was 40 degrees the other day when we climbed Santa Anna. Forty bloody degrees!
Fortunately it's cooler where we are now - in a town on the Ruta de la Flores called Juayua. It was a little surprising then when Philippa asked me last night if we should be concerned that there was a scorpion on the wall. Um yes we bloody should.
So like typical girls we looked at it for 5 minutes - I got some paper out and was going to try and slap it out of the room. But then we decided to let the manager deal with it.
Perhaps it happened every day.
Her screams on seeing said scorpion suggested it wasn't commonplace. She then squashed it with her shoe and she looked most distressed. Lovely girl too.
I had lovely dreams about scorpions climbing into my mouth all night.
X
Fortunately it's cooler where we are now - in a town on the Ruta de la Flores called Juayua. It was a little surprising then when Philippa asked me last night if we should be concerned that there was a scorpion on the wall. Um yes we bloody should.
So like typical girls we looked at it for 5 minutes - I got some paper out and was going to try and slap it out of the room. But then we decided to let the manager deal with it.
Perhaps it happened every day.
Her screams on seeing said scorpion suggested it wasn't commonplace. She then squashed it with her shoe and she looked most distressed. Lovely girl too.
I had lovely dreams about scorpions climbing into my mouth all night.
X
Friday, 9 March 2012
Lake Action
In my delight at actually having made it to the summit without cheating/dieing/having a heart attack I completely forget to talk about the afternoon at Lago de Coatepeque. Admittedly hearing about this probably won't change your life readers, but hey it ain't all about you ;-)
So the lake - it's 6km wide -and you can see the peaks of the 3 volcanoes - including the one I just bloomin climbed up. How ace is that? ( no, just me?).
Our guide got us an unbelievable table on a jetty. I dived into the water, managed to keep my bikini attached to my body and sighed as I swam looking at the summit. It was a beautiful moment folks. Happy happy face.
I then ate prawn ceviche, drank a licuado ( smoothie) and smugly thought how great life is.
Bon weekend everyone
X
So the lake - it's 6km wide -and you can see the peaks of the 3 volcanoes - including the one I just bloomin climbed up. How ace is that? ( no, just me?).
Our guide got us an unbelievable table on a jetty. I dived into the water, managed to keep my bikini attached to my body and sighed as I swam looking at the summit. It was a beautiful moment folks. Happy happy face.
I then ate prawn ceviche, drank a licuado ( smoothie) and smugly thought how great life is.
Bon weekend everyone
X
The day I conquered a Volcano
Evening amigos
So where did I leave off? Oh yes cooking in Suchitoto. The afternoon and evening was also fun - we hired a boat and went out bird watching. 3 free loading do gooders ( although it seemed to me did very little) also joined us, and a fun Canadian guy called Scott. Fun afternoon, and we ended the day drinking beer and avoiding tequila shots in El Necio bar.
Philippa and I rolled into our palace of a hotel at midnight promising to get up at 6 to see sunrise.
Friday dawns - sunrise is briefly observed - and then we head out with a local tour guide on a full day walking up El Salvador's highest active volcano, and then cooling off on it's largest freshwater lake - lago de coatepeque.
The trek starts well - we meet up with 6 other tourists - and none of them look like the uber fit type's. Joy. Our police escort starts at a swift pace. Game on. Lonely planet has already told me that Santa Anna erupted in 2005 killing 2 and evacuating thousands. It also told me that the views from the barren and windy summit are spectacular. Time to find out but at my own pace. Turns out the trek is completely fine going up - and the views from the top are sensational. An emerald green boiling hot sulphur lake appears at the bottom of the crater. Amazing views of the dormant Volcan Izalco, blue skies and lago de coatepeque surround us. Hartley is back in the trekking game. What a difference having a 10kg backpack makes.
Feeling pretty smug at this stage it's time to go down. Simple. Well it would be for most people - but I go all wobbly when sheer drops are involved. As luck would have it - our main police guide quickly spots the weak link, and keen to keep his tourist mortality rates down he pretty much accompanies me the whole way down. Any point a steep drop occurs Gabriel's hand and body appears at my side. It's very welcome. Sod being tough - I'm quite getting into this being helpless.
At the bottom Gabriel says to me ' Mission accomplished Gemma'
Couldn't have put it better myself
X
So where did I leave off? Oh yes cooking in Suchitoto. The afternoon and evening was also fun - we hired a boat and went out bird watching. 3 free loading do gooders ( although it seemed to me did very little) also joined us, and a fun Canadian guy called Scott. Fun afternoon, and we ended the day drinking beer and avoiding tequila shots in El Necio bar.
Philippa and I rolled into our palace of a hotel at midnight promising to get up at 6 to see sunrise.
Friday dawns - sunrise is briefly observed - and then we head out with a local tour guide on a full day walking up El Salvador's highest active volcano, and then cooling off on it's largest freshwater lake - lago de coatepeque.
The trek starts well - we meet up with 6 other tourists - and none of them look like the uber fit type's. Joy. Our police escort starts at a swift pace. Game on. Lonely planet has already told me that Santa Anna erupted in 2005 killing 2 and evacuating thousands. It also told me that the views from the barren and windy summit are spectacular. Time to find out but at my own pace. Turns out the trek is completely fine going up - and the views from the top are sensational. An emerald green boiling hot sulphur lake appears at the bottom of the crater. Amazing views of the dormant Volcan Izalco, blue skies and lago de coatepeque surround us. Hartley is back in the trekking game. What a difference having a 10kg backpack makes.
Feeling pretty smug at this stage it's time to go down. Simple. Well it would be for most people - but I go all wobbly when sheer drops are involved. As luck would have it - our main police guide quickly spots the weak link, and keen to keep his tourist mortality rates down he pretty much accompanies me the whole way down. Any point a steep drop occurs Gabriel's hand and body appears at my side. It's very welcome. Sod being tough - I'm quite getting into this being helpless.
At the bottom Gabriel says to me ' Mission accomplished Gemma'
Couldn't have put it better myself
X
Thursday, 8 March 2012
Pupusa and a view
Hola Amigos
So we arrived in Suchitoto on a chicken bus from San Salvador. This country is HOT, it's also very clearly in the early stages of getting used to tourists. The first few hotels we looked at we very very basic. But we found a place, and took off to look around the town. It's described as the gem in El Salvadors tourism crown. I have to say this made me a little nervous. The place is cute -but it's no Antigua.
Today dawns though - and it's as if the town is a different place. Lovely, friendly locals greet me with Buenos Dias, a cowboy tips his hat to me. Morning Suchitoto. We go to have a chat with some tour guides - and end up with a great plan for our time here. The fun really starts after visiting a local hostel ( El Gringo, #27 calle Francisco Morazana) to get some advice from an expect called Robert Moran. I'd heard you can do a cookery class with his wife. It was brilliant - we learned to make the El Salvadorian dish : Pupusa's. These are essentially filled tortilla's. The rough recipe is as follows -details a little hazy due to erm translation issues :
Firstly choose your ingredients we had:
Avocado & jalapeño peppers
Ham, tomato and green pepper
Spinach
You finely chop the base ingredients and mix in a soft cheese ( ricotta might be the best Uk equivalent)
Then take either corn or rice flour and add water - the consistency should be similar to bread dough.
Take a large ball of the mixture to hands greased in veg oil - and make a nice ball
Then using the palm of your hand kind of slap the mixture in between both hands. You are essentially flattening and increasing the size into a circle circa 4 inch diameter.
Now fill this with a desert spoon full of mixture. Seal dough up so that it's a complete circle again - just fatter. Repeat the slapping.
Add the Pupusa to a saucepan/ griddle/ grillpan for circa 5 mins. Flip like a pancake.
Enjoy with an ice cold beer - and some salsa. Delicious!
We had such fun making them - smiling and laughing need no translating. Our $6 included the class, 3 Pupusa's to eat, and a freshly made smoothie.
So far it's the only thing in El Salvador which has seemed a bargain.
But to use my Dad's philosophy - I'm only here once.
Dad's I might need to borrow a bit more cash - well I was only following your advice right.......
If you look in the bottom of this pic - you can see one of the little beauties. You also see the view from our hotel. Managed to negotiate a $90 room down to $45. Pat on back for me. It also means these Pupusa's are gonna have to last me. The budget's spent.
X
Tips so far:
Stay at Las Puertas in the main square. Balcony views to die for, negotiate on prices - with a smile
Drink coffee in the courtyard of Los Almendros de San Lorenzo - a mere $1
Eat and cook at El Gringo - warm and lovely family, home cooking
So we arrived in Suchitoto on a chicken bus from San Salvador. This country is HOT, it's also very clearly in the early stages of getting used to tourists. The first few hotels we looked at we very very basic. But we found a place, and took off to look around the town. It's described as the gem in El Salvadors tourism crown. I have to say this made me a little nervous. The place is cute -but it's no Antigua.
Today dawns though - and it's as if the town is a different place. Lovely, friendly locals greet me with Buenos Dias, a cowboy tips his hat to me. Morning Suchitoto. We go to have a chat with some tour guides - and end up with a great plan for our time here. The fun really starts after visiting a local hostel ( El Gringo, #27 calle Francisco Morazana) to get some advice from an expect called Robert Moran. I'd heard you can do a cookery class with his wife. It was brilliant - we learned to make the El Salvadorian dish : Pupusa's. These are essentially filled tortilla's. The rough recipe is as follows -details a little hazy due to erm translation issues :
Firstly choose your ingredients we had:
Avocado & jalapeño peppers
Ham, tomato and green pepper
Spinach
You finely chop the base ingredients and mix in a soft cheese ( ricotta might be the best Uk equivalent)
Then take either corn or rice flour and add water - the consistency should be similar to bread dough.
Take a large ball of the mixture to hands greased in veg oil - and make a nice ball
Then using the palm of your hand kind of slap the mixture in between both hands. You are essentially flattening and increasing the size into a circle circa 4 inch diameter.
Now fill this with a desert spoon full of mixture. Seal dough up so that it's a complete circle again - just fatter. Repeat the slapping.
Add the Pupusa to a saucepan/ griddle/ grillpan for circa 5 mins. Flip like a pancake.
Enjoy with an ice cold beer - and some salsa. Delicious!
We had such fun making them - smiling and laughing need no translating. Our $6 included the class, 3 Pupusa's to eat, and a freshly made smoothie.
So far it's the only thing in El Salvador which has seemed a bargain.
But to use my Dad's philosophy - I'm only here once.
Dad's I might need to borrow a bit more cash - well I was only following your advice right.......
If you look in the bottom of this pic - you can see one of the little beauties. You also see the view from our hotel. Managed to negotiate a $90 room down to $45. Pat on back for me. It also means these Pupusa's are gonna have to last me. The budget's spent.
X
Tips so far:
Stay at Las Puertas in the main square. Balcony views to die for, negotiate on prices - with a smile
Drink coffee in the courtyard of Los Almendros de San Lorenzo - a mere $1
Eat and cook at El Gringo - warm and lovely family, home cooking
Wednesday, 7 March 2012
Food glorious food
Glorious is a great word isn't it - I don't use it enough - expect to see ' I saw a glorious cathedral' more than once in the coming week's.
Anyway so where was I? Oh yes a favourite topic of mine- food. I'm on another bus trip today -heading ( finally) into El Salvador. That's country number quatro readers. These bus trips give your mind time to wander, and the one my mind seems to get to pretty often is what is next going to pass my lips.
For some people ( although admittedly not many of my friends - you are all greedy guts) food is just something
to give them energy. Not me - for me it's something to look forward to, get excited about and simply enjoy. I've always loved food - I love cooking, baking bread on weekends, making cakes for friends and as most of you know there's nothing I love more than having people over for dinner. So it's no surprise that I love eating local foods when I'm in new countries.
There are limits to this experimenting- I left the snake alone in Vietnam and cow's testicles were a bit much in China but on the whole I'm game so to speak.
Some of my happiest memories involve food. My top 5 food memories coming up:-
1. The Wolseley - boxing day 2011- fruit salad to die for, amazing company
2. My first steak in Buenos Aires - with Sharon - bife de lomo which utterly melted in my mouth. Estaba buenisimo
3. Yang Sing in Manchester - a graduation pressie from boyf at the time. Happy times. Beautiful food.
4. A strawberry Mochi in Gion train station in Tokyo with Maartje. Served by a blind lady - I expected this typical dessert to be good - but my god I'll never forget this - kind of like a raw floury doughnut filled with Cream and a whole strawberry. Light, fluffy and fresh.
5. Zuma with Dr Robby/ Robster or just Robby. My oldest, dearest friend and I have a continual battle over expensive restaurants. He loves them/ I find them pretentious. We agreed to go to Zuma. I was skeptical. I was very, very wrong. Sensational.
This trip some of the things that i've been loving have included:
Prawn ceviche made by the crew of the Ragga queen in Belize. Unbeliezable ( sorry I'm not going to tire of that one).
Tuna steak in Utila - at La Porchetta £4 for the biggest hunks of beautifully fresh tuna. Steaky, firm and delicious.
Felafel from Utltralight cafe, Utila. The sign said authentic Israeli food. If that's the case get me to Israel.
Anything served at Cafe Barista in Antigua.
El Salvador should give me lots of opportunity to try Pupusa's - round cornmeal dough filled with meat, cheese and that old favourite of refried beans. Come to Gemma, and bring a bottle of Golden beer along - we've got to celebrate these border crossings.
It's fair to say though that generally excitement levels over beans and rice have peaked.
X
Anyway so where was I? Oh yes a favourite topic of mine- food. I'm on another bus trip today -heading ( finally) into El Salvador. That's country number quatro readers. These bus trips give your mind time to wander, and the one my mind seems to get to pretty often is what is next going to pass my lips.
For some people ( although admittedly not many of my friends - you are all greedy guts) food is just something
to give them energy. Not me - for me it's something to look forward to, get excited about and simply enjoy. I've always loved food - I love cooking, baking bread on weekends, making cakes for friends and as most of you know there's nothing I love more than having people over for dinner. So it's no surprise that I love eating local foods when I'm in new countries.
There are limits to this experimenting- I left the snake alone in Vietnam and cow's testicles were a bit much in China but on the whole I'm game so to speak.
Some of my happiest memories involve food. My top 5 food memories coming up:-
1. The Wolseley - boxing day 2011- fruit salad to die for, amazing company
2. My first steak in Buenos Aires - with Sharon - bife de lomo which utterly melted in my mouth. Estaba buenisimo
3. Yang Sing in Manchester - a graduation pressie from boyf at the time. Happy times. Beautiful food.
4. A strawberry Mochi in Gion train station in Tokyo with Maartje. Served by a blind lady - I expected this typical dessert to be good - but my god I'll never forget this - kind of like a raw floury doughnut filled with Cream and a whole strawberry. Light, fluffy and fresh.
5. Zuma with Dr Robby/ Robster or just Robby. My oldest, dearest friend and I have a continual battle over expensive restaurants. He loves them/ I find them pretentious. We agreed to go to Zuma. I was skeptical. I was very, very wrong. Sensational.
This trip some of the things that i've been loving have included:
Prawn ceviche made by the crew of the Ragga queen in Belize. Unbeliezable ( sorry I'm not going to tire of that one).
Tuna steak in Utila - at La Porchetta £4 for the biggest hunks of beautifully fresh tuna. Steaky, firm and delicious.
Felafel from Utltralight cafe, Utila. The sign said authentic Israeli food. If that's the case get me to Israel.
Anything served at Cafe Barista in Antigua.
El Salvador should give me lots of opportunity to try Pupusa's - round cornmeal dough filled with meat, cheese and that old favourite of refried beans. Come to Gemma, and bring a bottle of Golden beer along - we've got to celebrate these border crossings.
It's fair to say though that generally excitement levels over beans and rice have peaked.
X
Tuesday, 6 March 2012
Credit please
Another stormy night dreaming of tidal waves and trying to remember what happened at the end of the movie ' a perfect storm'
Alas no ferries again today. In sunny weather this would delight me, in stormy weather it had me getting itchy for the mainland. The whole pro/ cons side of me kicked in:
Pro's
I get to run into the French guy who I met on my dive again ( I say met, I actually mean acted like a damsel in distress. Totally worth it when he tightened my cheat straps for me - swoon)
I get to eat felafel from the gorgeous Ultralight cafe
Con's
I miss out on a day in El Salvador and a day in Nicaragua
I'm eating too much crap
I'm going to run out of books
Ok so it was time to find a Plan not involving a ferry. Another stranded couple from the hotel suggrest chartering a flight. I should point out it's very stormy and windy but reverting to the Pro's/ con's list thing - death by plane crash was a risk worth taking. Turns out chartering a plane is very easy - $200 and it's yours. There were only 3 seats on the plane so we talked a German guy into it - and 30 minutes later we were off. Very exciting. ( we didn't callously dump the couple - they decided it was too expensive so have stayed another day. Not that I don't have callously dumping couples in me of course....)
We didn't spot any whale sharks from the ocean but we did see lots of disused planes. We'd heard that lots of drugs runs take place on the island, and I daresay some of these planes had been up to no good.
The day then takes a remarkable change to the worse. The term so close but yet so far seems appropriate. Our first (!) trip to the bus station involves detailed drawings by the bus manager trying to explain to us that the 2pm bus would maybe leave at 7pm but we wasn't sure as the road was closed due to a protest. Ok we think - we're keen on this flying malarky - let's just pick up a flight to our destination- more expensive but hey. Only there weren't any flights. Back to the bus station. I could go on to tell you about the irritating taxi cartel going on at the airport or the number of men with guns I've seen. I'm not going to though - after arriving at San Pedro Sula at 9pm we've maxed out the credit card. I've got cable TV to watch, beer to drink and Nachos to eat. I've also got men with guns roaming the streets outside - don't panic we've paid for 24 hour security. I think I may need another beer. Wonder what tonight's dreams will be about?
X
Alas no ferries again today. In sunny weather this would delight me, in stormy weather it had me getting itchy for the mainland. The whole pro/ cons side of me kicked in:
Pro's
I get to run into the French guy who I met on my dive again ( I say met, I actually mean acted like a damsel in distress. Totally worth it when he tightened my cheat straps for me - swoon)
I get to eat felafel from the gorgeous Ultralight cafe
Con's
I miss out on a day in El Salvador and a day in Nicaragua
I'm eating too much crap
I'm going to run out of books
Ok so it was time to find a Plan not involving a ferry. Another stranded couple from the hotel suggrest chartering a flight. I should point out it's very stormy and windy but reverting to the Pro's/ con's list thing - death by plane crash was a risk worth taking. Turns out chartering a plane is very easy - $200 and it's yours. There were only 3 seats on the plane so we talked a German guy into it - and 30 minutes later we were off. Very exciting. ( we didn't callously dump the couple - they decided it was too expensive so have stayed another day. Not that I don't have callously dumping couples in me of course....)
We didn't spot any whale sharks from the ocean but we did see lots of disused planes. We'd heard that lots of drugs runs take place on the island, and I daresay some of these planes had been up to no good.
The day then takes a remarkable change to the worse. The term so close but yet so far seems appropriate. Our first (!) trip to the bus station involves detailed drawings by the bus manager trying to explain to us that the 2pm bus would maybe leave at 7pm but we wasn't sure as the road was closed due to a protest. Ok we think - we're keen on this flying malarky - let's just pick up a flight to our destination- more expensive but hey. Only there weren't any flights. Back to the bus station. I could go on to tell you about the irritating taxi cartel going on at the airport or the number of men with guns I've seen. I'm not going to though - after arriving at San Pedro Sula at 9pm we've maxed out the credit card. I've got cable TV to watch, beer to drink and Nachos to eat. I've also got men with guns roaming the streets outside - don't panic we've paid for 24 hour security. I think I may need another beer. Wonder what tonight's dreams will be about?
X
Monday, 5 March 2012
Be careful what you wish for....
So you know I was whittering on about not wanting to leave the island ( beautiful hotel, beautiful men, beautiful sea etc etc). Well it turns out I haven't. Only not of my own choosing.
We had the mother of all storms in the night - waited from 6am for our ferry to get us. Hours passed - zero ferry action. No problem - the joy of independent travel being what it is. The vomit comet leaves at 2pm, so seasickness pill me up and we can get that one. I was resigned to an hour of hell.
We rest it out in the room - but the winds are getting worse and worse. We quickly realise the hotel in the best position in the bay - prominently sticking out - is also the worst in gale force winds. I saw a chair picked up from outside our door - and dropped 30 metres further down the corridor. It was starting to get scary.
The slightly eccentric owner of our hotel, an uber conservative lady called Thelma has been a complete star though. She came to tell us the port is closed, so no 2pm ferry. She's letting us stay in the room tonight for no charge and fingers crossed the ferries will be allowed to run in the morning.
So it's an afternoon of crap movies, M&M's and take-aways. This feels like an adventure. Mum I promise I have been very healthy on this trip - but I've been forced to eat crap today - honest ;-)
So be careful what you wish for kids,
Mother nature is on the loose
X
We had the mother of all storms in the night - waited from 6am for our ferry to get us. Hours passed - zero ferry action. No problem - the joy of independent travel being what it is. The vomit comet leaves at 2pm, so seasickness pill me up and we can get that one. I was resigned to an hour of hell.
We rest it out in the room - but the winds are getting worse and worse. We quickly realise the hotel in the best position in the bay - prominently sticking out - is also the worst in gale force winds. I saw a chair picked up from outside our door - and dropped 30 metres further down the corridor. It was starting to get scary.
The slightly eccentric owner of our hotel, an uber conservative lady called Thelma has been a complete star though. She came to tell us the port is closed, so no 2pm ferry. She's letting us stay in the room tonight for no charge and fingers crossed the ferries will be allowed to run in the morning.
So it's an afternoon of crap movies, M&M's and take-aways. This feels like an adventure. Mum I promise I have been very healthy on this trip - but I've been forced to eat crap today - honest ;-)
So be careful what you wish for kids,
Mother nature is on the loose
X
Sunday, 4 March 2012
Inane grinning
This is what this place does to you :-)
I think it's fair to say i've got my sparkle back
Long live two month holidays
X
I think it's fair to say i've got my sparkle back
Long live two month holidays
X
Mrs H would love it right here
Final day on Utila. It really is a lovely place - not that I've made much effort to explore the whole island. Philippa has at least cycled around. But that's the trouble with staying somewhere swanky. No other spot on the island can top the views from our room and balcony - so why bother. That's why it will be so great * untruthful face* to get back to $15/ night rooms. We'll have much more motivation to explore the surrounding area then.
Anyway so back to what I have seen of Utila - essentially it's a one street island. The named this street Main Street - clever islanders. Main street has a beautiful little bakery, restaurants like the wonderful Big Mamma's cafe and RJ's ( lobster costs £7 - get in!). It has a cute cinema ' Reef cinema' which shows terrible movies.
On weekends the island men have big games of dominoes in the street. The game I watched for a bit looked pretty tense - the men had consumed a fair bit of flor de Cana ( that Nicaraguan rum) and I think there was money involved.
What's so lovely about the place - is there are also lots of random hand written signs advertising food or boat trips from people's homes. It feels really undeveloped - not at all like other parts of the Caribbean I've been to.
What has taken me a bit by surprise is how people sound. The island has a lot of White descendants of the early British settlers ( the islands were under British control until 1859), and English is the dominant language on the islands. But man it's an unusual dialect with a very broad carribean accent. Really unusual and lovely to listen to.
Anyway back to the hammock then, only one thing would make it more perfect, and that one thing would be sharing a G&T with my beautiful mum's. She'd love spotting the fish down below, and I suspect I could talk her into a lobster for dinner........£7 right - rude not to.
X
Anyway so back to what I have seen of Utila - essentially it's a one street island. The named this street Main Street - clever islanders. Main street has a beautiful little bakery, restaurants like the wonderful Big Mamma's cafe and RJ's ( lobster costs £7 - get in!). It has a cute cinema ' Reef cinema' which shows terrible movies.
On weekends the island men have big games of dominoes in the street. The game I watched for a bit looked pretty tense - the men had consumed a fair bit of flor de Cana ( that Nicaraguan rum) and I think there was money involved.
What's so lovely about the place - is there are also lots of random hand written signs advertising food or boat trips from people's homes. It feels really undeveloped - not at all like other parts of the Caribbean I've been to.
What has taken me a bit by surprise is how people sound. The island has a lot of White descendants of the early British settlers ( the islands were under British control until 1859), and English is the dominant language on the islands. But man it's an unusual dialect with a very broad carribean accent. Really unusual and lovely to listen to.
Anyway back to the hammock then, only one thing would make it more perfect, and that one thing would be sharing a G&T with my beautiful mum's. She'd love spotting the fish down below, and I suspect I could talk her into a lobster for dinner........£7 right - rude not to.
X
Saturday, 3 March 2012
Hammock time
So after all the exertion of yesterday's diving, today was a day to spend little and relax large. Happily we're staying in our swanky lighthouse hotel ( I'm aware I've mentioned this, but I'm so bloody chuffed to be here I can't stop) so a day lazing in the hammock is no hardship. From our balcony we've been able to see ray's, amazing thin long fish, a metre long tuna looking fish. Beautiful - even if I don't know what half the fish are called. It's also beautiful to swim right off the hotel dock - so we've been doing that today. I had a bit of a snorkel.
Tonight it's dinner at the lovely looking Italian ( getting sick of rice and coleslaw) , and a trip to the tiny 45 person cinema. Great way to spend a Saturday.
X
Tonight it's dinner at the lovely looking Italian ( getting sick of rice and coleslaw) , and a trip to the tiny 45 person cinema. Great way to spend a Saturday.
X
Turtle tastic
Let's skip over the hangover - my one on one diving tune up session with the lovely girl instructor (!) Karina goes well. We did all those skills I hoped I'd never have to do again - taking your mask off, sharing breathing etc etc. I passed though, and off I go. I get put with a group about to start their divemaster training - ie bloomin experts. But the dive was great - 18m down along a beautiful coral wall - lots of sea life and wonderful visibility. I spent about 10 minutes needing to burp ( don't wolf down a bacon and broccoli quiche before diving, its a bad burp combo). I also had to be helped up by a French guy after I embarrassingly couldn't lift my tank to get up - need to do more treks to improve my thigh muscles ( unlikely).
Anyway as soon as we surfaced a huge turtle appears - so we swam over To have a play - only he dives straight down. Pretty good end to the dive though.
Just off to burp to my hearts content - and have an early booze free night.
Adios
X
Anyway as soon as we surfaced a huge turtle appears - so we swam over To have a play - only he dives straight down. Pretty good end to the dive though.
Just off to burp to my hearts content - and have an early booze free night.
Adios
X
A night out in Utila
Diving day dawns - I should wake bright and breezy.
Alas last night we had the girls over for drinks on our posh balcony....one rum cocktail turned into a bottle of two of wine. We then popped in to see the fish and drunk owner of Babalu for some beer. Finally we end up in Tranquilla where Helen and Rachel appear to know everyone in the bar. This leads to a few happy events - firstly we don't buy a drink all night, secondly I get introduced to the local man about town - a very easy on the eye Honduran called Lukas - quite the charmer. He teaches me all about Rum - I'm now sold and getting a bottle of Nicaragua's finest before I come home. A less happy event was being told that I have a very cool look - that's a kind of combination of intelligent and looking like a whore. Mmmmmmm I think I may need to work on my holiday look. The guy genuinely was trying to be nice and tell me I had a unique look - I think he meant well :-)
So that's why I got to bed past midnight
But smiling....we had a lot of fun
X
Alas last night we had the girls over for drinks on our posh balcony....one rum cocktail turned into a bottle of two of wine. We then popped in to see the fish and drunk owner of Babalu for some beer. Finally we end up in Tranquilla where Helen and Rachel appear to know everyone in the bar. This leads to a few happy events - firstly we don't buy a drink all night, secondly I get introduced to the local man about town - a very easy on the eye Honduran called Lukas - quite the charmer. He teaches me all about Rum - I'm now sold and getting a bottle of Nicaragua's finest before I come home. A less happy event was being told that I have a very cool look - that's a kind of combination of intelligent and looking like a whore. Mmmmmmm I think I may need to work on my holiday look. The guy genuinely was trying to be nice and tell me I had a unique look - I think he meant well :-)
So that's why I got to bed past midnight
But smiling....we had a lot of fun
X
Thursday, 1 March 2012
A back burner of a day
Water Caye
Thursday dawns - and I get myself lined up for some diving Friday, Sat and Sunday. The very lovely Simon at Utila dive centre has recommended I have a few hours one on one tuition to get myself back in diving mode. Based on the instructors I saw there this morning - I'm very very happy to have a bit of intensive coaching ;-)
We then head off to Water Quay - a tiny uninhabited island about an hour from the mainland. We hire a captain we meet in the street ( boding well) and he comes to pick us up from our pier. The boat when it arrives is pretty basic - no sign of a life jacket. An hour later we arrive at the Caye, and it is bloody spectacular. Completely gorgeous.
Crystal clear water, pelicans diving into the water to catch fish, coconut trees. Heaven.
I'm not sure who to blame on the red back I seem to have now - either simon the Scottish divemaster who may have entered my thoughts distracting me that afternoon, or the island itself, specifically my own little peninsula. I'll go with the island - it was too beautiful not to lie on the White sand, with the water at my feet. Damn you water Caye.
X
Thursday dawns - and I get myself lined up for some diving Friday, Sat and Sunday. The very lovely Simon at Utila dive centre has recommended I have a few hours one on one tuition to get myself back in diving mode. Based on the instructors I saw there this morning - I'm very very happy to have a bit of intensive coaching ;-)
We then head off to Water Quay - a tiny uninhabited island about an hour from the mainland. We hire a captain we meet in the street ( boding well) and he comes to pick us up from our pier. The boat when it arrives is pretty basic - no sign of a life jacket. An hour later we arrive at the Caye, and it is bloody spectacular. Completely gorgeous.
Crystal clear water, pelicans diving into the water to catch fish, coconut trees. Heaven.
I'm not sure who to blame on the red back I seem to have now - either simon the Scottish divemaster who may have entered my thoughts distracting me that afternoon, or the island itself, specifically my own little peninsula. I'll go with the island - it was too beautiful not to lie on the White sand, with the water at my feet. Damn you water Caye.
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Shunning the vomit comet
So a few travelling days have gone past. Nothing especially eventful - but anyone wanting to get to La Ceiba from Guatemala -I highly recommend using Hedman Alas buses. Proper luxury, lots of free snacks and plenty of very crap movies. The 16 hours flew by. In fact I wish the bus could have gone through the night - that way we could have avoided a night in the sess pit of a hotel called Hotel el estadio. The guys running it seemed better suited to running a drugs cartel - if they spend some time working on actually growing a brain cell that is.
Anyway that was Tues, weds comes and it's time to get the ferry over to Paradise, otherwise known as Utila. The ferry to the islands is known locally as the Vomit Comet. I've heard stories of people not being allowed outside, and at least 10 people per crossing just spewing their guts up. Fortunately someone had told us about a new boat service that had started up. After much pfaffing from one half of the potential drug cartel - we got there. It ended up being a private charter - and the crossing was ace. We had dolphins swimming with the boat AND on hearing we were staying at the islands plushest hotel - the captain dropped us to our jetty at the hotel. It all felt very james bond.
The rest of Weds involved a lot of sighing and ahhhing from the balcony. The odd trip out, and drinks in a very cool bar called Babalu. The back of the bar is a square pontoon with tables all around - the centre is the ocean. Very cool. Probs not the best place to get really drunk at - I'd got a bout of food poisoning earlier that day ( my vomit comet moment did come after all) so was a pretty early night for me
Loving being back on an island
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Anyway that was Tues, weds comes and it's time to get the ferry over to Paradise, otherwise known as Utila. The ferry to the islands is known locally as the Vomit Comet. I've heard stories of people not being allowed outside, and at least 10 people per crossing just spewing their guts up. Fortunately someone had told us about a new boat service that had started up. After much pfaffing from one half of the potential drug cartel - we got there. It ended up being a private charter - and the crossing was ace. We had dolphins swimming with the boat AND on hearing we were staying at the islands plushest hotel - the captain dropped us to our jetty at the hotel. It all felt very james bond.
The rest of Weds involved a lot of sighing and ahhhing from the balcony. The odd trip out, and drinks in a very cool bar called Babalu. The back of the bar is a square pontoon with tables all around - the centre is the ocean. Very cool. Probs not the best place to get really drunk at - I'd got a bout of food poisoning earlier that day ( my vomit comet moment did come after all) so was a pretty early night for me
Loving being back on an island
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