I'll miss your smiles the most - and the giggling children.
This photo ( which I can't take credit for, but will when I get home be purchasing) sums it up for me. It's all about the people.
X
Monday, 27 February 2012
Hasta luego Guatemala
Bye Guate. I've loved you, your mountains, your beautiful people and the sound when you make those tasty little tortillas.
I'll miss your smiles the most - and the giggling children.
This photo ( which I can't take credit for, but will when I get home be purchasing) sums it up for me. It's all about the people.
X
I'll miss your smiles the most - and the giggling children.
This photo ( which I can't take credit for, but will when I get home be purchasing) sums it up for me. It's all about the people.
X
I'm on a roll
I do apologise for this - I seem to have written several very short posts today. Blame it on a short attention span.
So the American's drove me to this. When I lived in Sydney I discovered something which made me very, very happy. This was along with the beaches, Jen, the sound of the ocean etc etc. That thing was Sushi. I've also realised that my overall health and wellbeing needs a sushi fix every few weeks. Fortunately Antigua being the international place that it is - that itch was able to be well and truly scratched. Not bad it was too. Spicy Tuna tastic - courtesy of Umi's on 6a calle/ 6 av sur.
Maartje - I missed you Sushi girl
X
So the American's drove me to this. When I lived in Sydney I discovered something which made me very, very happy. This was along with the beaches, Jen, the sound of the ocean etc etc. That thing was Sushi. I've also realised that my overall health and wellbeing needs a sushi fix every few weeks. Fortunately Antigua being the international place that it is - that itch was able to be well and truly scratched. Not bad it was too. Spicy Tuna tastic - courtesy of Umi's on 6a calle/ 6 av sur.
Maartje - I missed you Sushi girl
X
And this is why Americans have a bad reputation...
Any American friends - move away from this page. Come back tomorrow..
So my private roof terrace has just been interrupted with a group of female American's. It seems to be a young (18) year old student, and 2 aunts and her mother.
They are talking about how there seen to be various different forms of Spanish spoken in Guatemala. The mother then comes out with this classic.
' well you know, it's like we speak English, but people in England speak it completely differently'
Said obviously 20 decibels louder than is strictly necessary.
Signed irritated of Antigua
X
So my private roof terrace has just been interrupted with a group of female American's. It seems to be a young (18) year old student, and 2 aunts and her mother.
They are talking about how there seen to be various different forms of Spanish spoken in Guatemala. The mother then comes out with this classic.
' well you know, it's like we speak English, but people in England speak it completely differently'
Said obviously 20 decibels louder than is strictly necessary.
Signed irritated of Antigua
X
Ruined I tell you
So I know a few people who would really like this place.
Firstly sister in law Tina would love it. Not because of the American tourists or the god squad. No - because of the ruins ( see what I did with the title). The cathedral for example was destroyed twice - firstly by an earthquake in 1668 and then finally in 1773. The facade has been rebuilt, but the ruins of the main body of the cathedral remain well in ruins. On the positive no roof means you can tan and sightsee, and made for some cool photos.
Due to cash-flow issues I've been forced to conserve my Q today. Which has meant I've had to make use of the roof terrace at the hotel. My lovely friend Sheffield Alison loves a roof terrace. She'd have been happy upstairs with me earlier. Arctic monkeys on loudspeaker. Shantaram in hand. Volcanoes to gawp at.
Photos of both views attached.
Tomorrow we head to Honduras on a mammoth bus ride- we're meeting up with Helen and Rachel in a bar which has an aquarium inside once we get to Utila. Island time.
X
Firstly sister in law Tina would love it. Not because of the American tourists or the god squad. No - because of the ruins ( see what I did with the title). The cathedral for example was destroyed twice - firstly by an earthquake in 1668 and then finally in 1773. The facade has been rebuilt, but the ruins of the main body of the cathedral remain well in ruins. On the positive no roof means you can tan and sightsee, and made for some cool photos.
Due to cash-flow issues I've been forced to conserve my Q today. Which has meant I've had to make use of the roof terrace at the hotel. My lovely friend Sheffield Alison loves a roof terrace. She'd have been happy upstairs with me earlier. Arctic monkeys on loudspeaker. Shantaram in hand. Volcanoes to gawp at.
Photos of both views attached.
Tomorrow we head to Honduras on a mammoth bus ride- we're meeting up with Helen and Rachel in a bar which has an aquarium inside once we get to Utila. Island time.
X
Sunday, 26 February 2012
If I was the pope....
So I mentioned there was a procession coming to town right?
It was most exciting, there was a real buzz about the beautifully cobbled streets of Antigua today.
After a draining combination of eating, photographing, shopping and passion fruit juice drinking we retired to the roof terrace for an hour or so. I'm working on my 'dirty tan' ( as my mum calls the colour brown I go). In fact I'm generally looking very unkempt - hippy like hair, dirty brown skin. Anyway....
The excitement of the procession lured me away from the sun bed - and down we went. Now I don't mean to sound all worky - but man this procession could do with a little focus. For a start it wasn't as much a procession as a let's stand around in our finest quality street purple robes and chat amongst our mates. I kind of wanted to go and help them out. It took them hours of just kind of standing there. I loved seeing one of the head purple clergy men on his iphone, while smoking AND popping into the local shop for a chocolate bar. Serious religious stuff you see. I think the Vatican needs to come and have a word.
It did make for amazing people watching though - and the atmosphere in park centrale was brilliant. Vendors selling candy floss, smurf toys, every kind of balloon, cakes, sweets and of course ice creams. The guatemalans love an ice cream. They also continue to be utterly lovely and charming and sweet. A man apologised to me when his lovely little boy tapped me on the shoulder to say hello earlier. I've mastered it's ok in Spanish so all was fine. The kids are very cute - quite a few have plucked up the courage to speak a few English words when they see us. Their smiles are wonderful.
Me encanta Guatemala - and talking of love - I fell in it today. With a handsome, dark brown and black cute little puppy I walked past in the pet shop. I can't wait to get little Charlie/Don Rodrigo when I get home.
I definitely didn't fall in love with the odd guy who was dressed like Antonio Banderas in the mask of zorro in our street tonight. He was filming himself doing all sorts of jumps and flying turns. Odd. If only he'd have taken part in the procession - he could have raised their energy levels.
X
It was most exciting, there was a real buzz about the beautifully cobbled streets of Antigua today.
After a draining combination of eating, photographing, shopping and passion fruit juice drinking we retired to the roof terrace for an hour or so. I'm working on my 'dirty tan' ( as my mum calls the colour brown I go). In fact I'm generally looking very unkempt - hippy like hair, dirty brown skin. Anyway....
The excitement of the procession lured me away from the sun bed - and down we went. Now I don't mean to sound all worky - but man this procession could do with a little focus. For a start it wasn't as much a procession as a let's stand around in our finest quality street purple robes and chat amongst our mates. I kind of wanted to go and help them out. It took them hours of just kind of standing there. I loved seeing one of the head purple clergy men on his iphone, while smoking AND popping into the local shop for a chocolate bar. Serious religious stuff you see. I think the Vatican needs to come and have a word.
It did make for amazing people watching though - and the atmosphere in park centrale was brilliant. Vendors selling candy floss, smurf toys, every kind of balloon, cakes, sweets and of course ice creams. The guatemalans love an ice cream. They also continue to be utterly lovely and charming and sweet. A man apologised to me when his lovely little boy tapped me on the shoulder to say hello earlier. I've mastered it's ok in Spanish so all was fine. The kids are very cute - quite a few have plucked up the courage to speak a few English words when they see us. Their smiles are wonderful.
Me encanta Guatemala - and talking of love - I fell in it today. With a handsome, dark brown and black cute little puppy I walked past in the pet shop. I can't wait to get little Charlie/Don Rodrigo when I get home.
I definitely didn't fall in love with the odd guy who was dressed like Antonio Banderas in the mask of zorro in our street tonight. He was filming himself doing all sorts of jumps and flying turns. Odd. If only he'd have taken part in the procession - he could have raised their energy levels.
X
The god squad
We really struggled getting somewhere to stay last night. It was a bit puzzling - we tried about 10 hotels ( many amazing, sob).
Then the penny clicks - I was downstairs sorting my photos out - and find myself surrounded by people of a religious inclination. They were from an American group called interfaith. Picture me rolling my eyes. I won't offend people( especially my Grandma) by saying any more.
But religion has it's upsides - in the run up to Easter - every Sunday there are huge processions through town. The pictures I've seen look amazing. So I'm going to be really hypocritical and take lots of photos of the procession.
After I've had my £5 brekkie of course
X
Then the penny clicks - I was downstairs sorting my photos out - and find myself surrounded by people of a religious inclination. They were from an American group called interfaith. Picture me rolling my eyes. I won't offend people( especially my Grandma) by saying any more.
But religion has it's upsides - in the run up to Easter - every Sunday there are huge processions through town. The pictures I've seen look amazing. So I'm going to be really hypocritical and take lots of photos of the procession.
After I've had my £5 brekkie of course
X
I just ate 2 nights accommodation....
Well yep so this roughing it, sleeping on floors, climbing up things you really shouldn't etc is all well and good, but from time to time you need to embrace some home comforts.
At least that's my excuse for having a huge smile on my face eating a spinach and egg panini ( posh mcdonalds egg mcmuffin?) and massive latte yesterday morning for breakfast. Some Guatemalan tortillas would have cost 10p - this cost £5. Worth every penny.
Talking of pennies - I've been highly amused to remember just how money focussed backpackers are. The guys on the trek spend £2 / night on their accommodation. They wanted to know what our luxury £15/ night hotel room was like. My response ' that ain't luxury love'. Every time we tuck into our £5 lunches in Antigua we giggle - that's 2 nights accommodation. Bugger it - my days of rat infested holes are over.
Anyway time to discover the beautiful Antigua - it's stunningly positioned - with 3 volcanoes surrounding it. I really should climb up one....or I could go for a passion fruit smoothie and drink to my brazillian girls. Sounds more sociable right?
This one's to you Chica's - Mel, Jodie, em, Lisa and Bec....Maracuja time
X
At least that's my excuse for having a huge smile on my face eating a spinach and egg panini ( posh mcdonalds egg mcmuffin?) and massive latte yesterday morning for breakfast. Some Guatemalan tortillas would have cost 10p - this cost £5. Worth every penny.
Talking of pennies - I've been highly amused to remember just how money focussed backpackers are. The guys on the trek spend £2 / night on their accommodation. They wanted to know what our luxury £15/ night hotel room was like. My response ' that ain't luxury love'. Every time we tuck into our £5 lunches in Antigua we giggle - that's 2 nights accommodation. Bugger it - my days of rat infested holes are over.
Anyway time to discover the beautiful Antigua - it's stunningly positioned - with 3 volcanoes surrounding it. I really should climb up one....or I could go for a passion fruit smoothie and drink to my brazillian girls. Sounds more sociable right?
This one's to you Chica's - Mel, Jodie, em, Lisa and Bec....Maracuja time
X
Thursday, 23 February 2012
When things are looking bleak, hitch a lift
Sometimes I decide I want to do something active and adventurous. Most of the time I quickly realise what a stupid whim it was and quickly pull out of said activity ( endless examples of 10k runs, 100km 24 hour walks). Occasionally I don't pull out - sometimes this works out fine - this wasn't one of those times......
On arrival at our pre trek meeting in Xela, Guatemala we were told to pick a chair - each of the chairs had various items of food we had to carry on our trek. We also had to carry a sleeping bag, 2 litres of water, shoes we could wade through rivers in, a sleeping mat, plate, knife, fork. Oh and we needed a minimum 65l backpack as more stuff would need to be carried in the morning. Looking around the group no one else seemed to look surprised or nervous. Mmmmmmmm. So this is a porterless trek, and the sleeping stuff wasn't already at point B then. Bugger.
A sleepless night ensues - had I been doing this on my own I'd have ( sensibly) pulled out.
D day arrives - and the 3 hour sheer ascent up a great big mountain ( see Philippas blog for any details, I couldn't take in any information) was utter hell on earth. At altitude. With a backpack. On an unfit middle aged woman. The rest of the group sailed up. Of course they did - 2 of them were Swiss (they climb mountains in their lunch breaks don't they?) We also had a no nonsense German with walnut cracking thighs, a Canadian who spends weeks trekking and ' trailwalker' Philippa. The situation was looking bleak.
Quite how I survived the day I'm really not sure - the up's and down's seemed endless. My saviour though was the amazing Rachel - one of the guides - who stayed with me - and mentally helped me get to the top, get back down again( along with Philippa) and made me laugh along the way. She even encouraged me to hop in the back of a pick up truck the last 30 mins of the trek. Naughty Rachel :-)
From pick up truck point onwards the evening improves - we eat doughnuts from the local bakery, the girls spend time in the village tiny Mayan sauna and we all pass out on the floor of the village town hall by 8pm.
Total km's walked: Gemma 19.5km
Rest of group 20km
Day 2 dawns - I wake feeling very chirpy and positive. Why? I'd already been told that on each trek at least one person pulls out mid point day 1 - and at various points on day 2 if I wanted to get a bus into the next point I could. Big yay. Lot of love for Rachel.
The morning starts well - we walk through beautiful villages, not a cloud in the sky, and all the farmers wielding machete's we pass seem happy to see us. Then the ascent of record hill begins. I'd been warned it wasn't great for people who were scared of heights. Bugger. Again Rachel kept me company. I made it....slowly. It would have been fine had the ascent ended there. Only it carried on for what seemed like hours more.....by 2pm the worst was all over. But I know when it's time to call it - I was utterly broken- so I missed the last 5km -but had a very funny experience with Rachel getting us two and our massive backpacks into a Tuk Tuk which already had 2 local women in the back. Much laughing. We also got attacked by a local dog walking into the village. No bites, we both ran, threw sticks and escaped. Turns out my body did have something left!
Total km's walked: Gemma 34.5km
Rest of group 40km
The final day dawns, and after a pretty ace nights sleep on the floor of a lovely local man's house we set off at 4.30am to get to our viewpoint over lake atitlan in time to see sunrise. I actually walk at the front of the group ( the swiss may be good with Mountains, but my legs can have them on a flat road any day) - the stars are out. The cup of tea while we watched the sun come up over the lake was wonderful. I even saw two shooting stars. Sigh. Philippa looks very happy.
Just a massive bloody sheer mountain to scramble down and we're here. Trek over. Looking back on it now it almost feels worth it. But then I try and stand up and realise that no it bloody wasn't.
I need a holiday, and a trip to a physio.
X
On arrival at our pre trek meeting in Xela, Guatemala we were told to pick a chair - each of the chairs had various items of food we had to carry on our trek. We also had to carry a sleeping bag, 2 litres of water, shoes we could wade through rivers in, a sleeping mat, plate, knife, fork. Oh and we needed a minimum 65l backpack as more stuff would need to be carried in the morning. Looking around the group no one else seemed to look surprised or nervous. Mmmmmmmm. So this is a porterless trek, and the sleeping stuff wasn't already at point B then. Bugger.
A sleepless night ensues - had I been doing this on my own I'd have ( sensibly) pulled out.
D day arrives - and the 3 hour sheer ascent up a great big mountain ( see Philippas blog for any details, I couldn't take in any information) was utter hell on earth. At altitude. With a backpack. On an unfit middle aged woman. The rest of the group sailed up. Of course they did - 2 of them were Swiss (they climb mountains in their lunch breaks don't they?) We also had a no nonsense German with walnut cracking thighs, a Canadian who spends weeks trekking and ' trailwalker' Philippa. The situation was looking bleak.
Quite how I survived the day I'm really not sure - the up's and down's seemed endless. My saviour though was the amazing Rachel - one of the guides - who stayed with me - and mentally helped me get to the top, get back down again( along with Philippa) and made me laugh along the way. She even encouraged me to hop in the back of a pick up truck the last 30 mins of the trek. Naughty Rachel :-)
From pick up truck point onwards the evening improves - we eat doughnuts from the local bakery, the girls spend time in the village tiny Mayan sauna and we all pass out on the floor of the village town hall by 8pm.
Total km's walked: Gemma 19.5km
Rest of group 20km
Day 2 dawns - I wake feeling very chirpy and positive. Why? I'd already been told that on each trek at least one person pulls out mid point day 1 - and at various points on day 2 if I wanted to get a bus into the next point I could. Big yay. Lot of love for Rachel.
The morning starts well - we walk through beautiful villages, not a cloud in the sky, and all the farmers wielding machete's we pass seem happy to see us. Then the ascent of record hill begins. I'd been warned it wasn't great for people who were scared of heights. Bugger. Again Rachel kept me company. I made it....slowly. It would have been fine had the ascent ended there. Only it carried on for what seemed like hours more.....by 2pm the worst was all over. But I know when it's time to call it - I was utterly broken- so I missed the last 5km -but had a very funny experience with Rachel getting us two and our massive backpacks into a Tuk Tuk which already had 2 local women in the back. Much laughing. We also got attacked by a local dog walking into the village. No bites, we both ran, threw sticks and escaped. Turns out my body did have something left!
Total km's walked: Gemma 34.5km
Rest of group 40km
The final day dawns, and after a pretty ace nights sleep on the floor of a lovely local man's house we set off at 4.30am to get to our viewpoint over lake atitlan in time to see sunrise. I actually walk at the front of the group ( the swiss may be good with Mountains, but my legs can have them on a flat road any day) - the stars are out. The cup of tea while we watched the sun come up over the lake was wonderful. I even saw two shooting stars. Sigh. Philippa looks very happy.
Just a massive bloody sheer mountain to scramble down and we're here. Trek over. Looking back on it now it almost feels worth it. But then I try and stand up and realise that no it bloody wasn't.
I need a holiday, and a trip to a physio.
X
Monday, 20 February 2012
Spa day
So another day, another bus journey. So you don't think I'm losing the plot I'm attaching a pic of the bus we got this morning.
See beautiful aren't they ( Don I know you will like it...)
Anyway we were heading for Zunil - another village / town who have their Market on Mondays. Only not this Monday so we didn't hang around too long.
One of Guatemala's prettiest natural springs is a 15 minute ride in the back of a pick up away. Santos our lovely driver happily stopping along the way to let us take photos of the beautiful mountains, volcanoes and farmland. Gorgeous. In fact you can tell from my face that I enjoyed the journey.
The springs were lovely, and a relaxing time was had. Such a contrast to Japan - here the local women won't go in the water in a bathing costume - instead just dipping their feet. In Japan it's everything off ( Maartje - I thought of our bath experience!).
The highlight of my day though was sitting up front with Santos on the journey back and him laughing at my attempted Spanish conversation skills! Cheeky.
Trekking for 3 days tomorrow - fingers crossed for some cool fellow trekkers.
Adios
X
See beautiful aren't they ( Don I know you will like it...)
Anyway we were heading for Zunil - another village / town who have their Market on Mondays. Only not this Monday so we didn't hang around too long.
One of Guatemala's prettiest natural springs is a 15 minute ride in the back of a pick up away. Santos our lovely driver happily stopping along the way to let us take photos of the beautiful mountains, volcanoes and farmland. Gorgeous. In fact you can tell from my face that I enjoyed the journey.
The springs were lovely, and a relaxing time was had. Such a contrast to Japan - here the local women won't go in the water in a bathing costume - instead just dipping their feet. In Japan it's everything off ( Maartje - I thought of our bath experience!).
The highlight of my day though was sitting up front with Santos on the journey back and him laughing at my attempted Spanish conversation skills! Cheeky.
Trekking for 3 days tomorrow - fingers crossed for some cool fellow trekkers.
Adios
X
This little piggy went to Market
So Market day in Chichicastenango starts damn early - lots of Mayan rituals happen around the village on the same day - and the sound of canons being fired from 4am was actually fireworks to announce ' the Mayan men are here' very cool.
The locals get up nice and early and seem very friendly. The man who told me he wanted to make love to me was perhaps a tad too friendly - and also a bit too early. I politely thanked him and went on my way (!). Tempting, but no.
Delights awaited - a truly fascinating Market. We were told it could be touristy - if that means circa 20 White people all day then yes. I can handle that though.
A highlight for me was 2 traditionally dressed Mayan women struggling to get a pig to his inevitable death. The pig knew what was coming, there were tears and screaming. Ultimately one Señora had his tail, the other his neck. This little piggy is off to be eaten. Adios.
X
The locals get up nice and early and seem very friendly. The man who told me he wanted to make love to me was perhaps a tad too friendly - and also a bit too early. I politely thanked him and went on my way (!). Tempting, but no.
Delights awaited - a truly fascinating Market. We were told it could be touristy - if that means circa 20 White people all day then yes. I can handle that though.
A highlight for me was 2 traditionally dressed Mayan women struggling to get a pig to his inevitable death. The pig knew what was coming, there were tears and screaming. Ultimately one Señora had his tail, the other his neck. This little piggy is off to be eaten. Adios.
X
Sunday, 19 February 2012
Machismo Day
So there's a term over here ' Machismo' which essentially means maleness or masculine virility.
We had two really good examples of this on Saturday. Our morning collectivo ride to the main bus station( 10p) started innocently enough. Someone's knee kept touching the 2/3 of my arse that wasn't actually on a seat ( making no excuses for the size of said arse, but they do cram in circa 50% more people than seats). No problem. Only it turns out it wasn't his knee.I won't say anymore- just that when I saw him 5 mins later he had an odd look on his face and his hand was somewhere it really shouldn't have been. Nice. 10p not looking like quite such a bargain, for me anyway.
The second experience was on the ace chicken bus ride from the cute Market town of Santa cruz del quiche ( what a name....) to our base for the night Chichicastenango. The ride ( 40p) was amazing partly due to the beautiful decorations of all the buses, but also because of the stunning views of forest and volcanoes around every corner.
Anyway our bus driver, let's call him Pedro, had chosen naked women as his screen adornment of choice, alongside the obligatory cracked windscreen. Pedro looked nice enough - slicked back hair, Mexico style moustache, cowboy boots. Turns out he's a complete psycho and relished overtaking anything and everything, ideally on a corner.
Men hey! Nightmares all of them.
So it's a quiet night in ChiChi before the mayhem of central america's biggest weekly Market tomorrow morning. Those of you who know me well know how much I love a Market. Let the haggling commence.
Es muy, muy caro
X
We had two really good examples of this on Saturday. Our morning collectivo ride to the main bus station( 10p) started innocently enough. Someone's knee kept touching the 2/3 of my arse that wasn't actually on a seat ( making no excuses for the size of said arse, but they do cram in circa 50% more people than seats). No problem. Only it turns out it wasn't his knee.I won't say anymore- just that when I saw him 5 mins later he had an odd look on his face and his hand was somewhere it really shouldn't have been. Nice. 10p not looking like quite such a bargain, for me anyway.
The second experience was on the ace chicken bus ride from the cute Market town of Santa cruz del quiche ( what a name....) to our base for the night Chichicastenango. The ride ( 40p) was amazing partly due to the beautiful decorations of all the buses, but also because of the stunning views of forest and volcanoes around every corner.
Anyway our bus driver, let's call him Pedro, had chosen naked women as his screen adornment of choice, alongside the obligatory cracked windscreen. Pedro looked nice enough - slicked back hair, Mexico style moustache, cowboy boots. Turns out he's a complete psycho and relished overtaking anything and everything, ideally on a corner.
Men hey! Nightmares all of them.
So it's a quiet night in ChiChi before the mayhem of central america's biggest weekly Market tomorrow morning. Those of you who know me well know how much I love a Market. Let the haggling commence.
Es muy, muy caro
X
Friday, 17 February 2012
Getting into local customs
So a bit of trivia for you kids.
6th century AD, chocolate was used by the Mayan culture. The word chocolate comes from the Maya word Xoxoatl which means bitter water.
I can assure you the chocolate cappuccino from cafe la Luna, Xela ( 80p - I can sense a tight arse theme emerging) was anything but bitter.
Oh we survived the overnight bus trip - got an onward connection to Quetzaltenango - 4 hours west and upwards in the highlands.
X
6th century AD, chocolate was used by the Mayan culture. The word chocolate comes from the Maya word Xoxoatl which means bitter water.
I can assure you the chocolate cappuccino from cafe la Luna, Xela ( 80p - I can sense a tight arse theme emerging) was anything but bitter.
Oh we survived the overnight bus trip - got an onward connection to Quetzaltenango - 4 hours west and upwards in the highlands.
X
The ant empire strikes back
After a few too many lemon daiquiris with PB, Helen and Rachel the night before ( 80 pence each. Yep you heard right) it's up with a dehydrated bang for our 4am departure to Tikal.
A lot of excitement about seeing the grand daddy of the Mayan world - I've heard it's magical because it just appears in your eyeline after a jungle trek. George Lukas also put it in Star Wars ( thanks Paul for making me watch those films).
After being fumigated on the journey out there, we're then told we risk certain death if we don't use a guide in the park. The cause of our apparently imminent death would be one of either:
Getting lost and then eaten by a jaguar
Snakes are common and if bitten the venom sucks all life out of you within 20 mins
Or simply severe dehydration.
Weighing up this with the chance of another academic overload guide a la Lamanai we decided death by extreme boredom was the worst option.
The chicas went free range.....
Not foolhardy as it turns out but genius - we walk around the park ( 16km of trails are open to the public) pretty much solo. My god what a park it is too - Temple after temple some fully excavated, some still partly covered in jungle. It's truly a beautiful place. I'm really not very good with heights but in Tikal you can get the top of Temples IV (star wars temple) and Temple II fairly easily. The views from the top are unbelievable - especially when the only other sounds are birds singing and howler monkeys playing. Unforgettable.
Turned out the biggest danger while in the park was a group of Killer ants ( might be exaggerating) - they took a liking to me - and I'm now covered in several huge red blotches. Attractive.
So day 12 and we're still alive. Night bus to Guatemala city tonight though so keep posted. No news is bad news.
X
A lot of excitement about seeing the grand daddy of the Mayan world - I've heard it's magical because it just appears in your eyeline after a jungle trek. George Lukas also put it in Star Wars ( thanks Paul for making me watch those films).
After being fumigated on the journey out there, we're then told we risk certain death if we don't use a guide in the park. The cause of our apparently imminent death would be one of either:
Getting lost and then eaten by a jaguar
Snakes are common and if bitten the venom sucks all life out of you within 20 mins
Or simply severe dehydration.
Weighing up this with the chance of another academic overload guide a la Lamanai we decided death by extreme boredom was the worst option.
The chicas went free range.....
Not foolhardy as it turns out but genius - we walk around the park ( 16km of trails are open to the public) pretty much solo. My god what a park it is too - Temple after temple some fully excavated, some still partly covered in jungle. It's truly a beautiful place. I'm really not very good with heights but in Tikal you can get the top of Temples IV (star wars temple) and Temple II fairly easily. The views from the top are unbelievable - especially when the only other sounds are birds singing and howler monkeys playing. Unforgettable.
Turned out the biggest danger while in the park was a group of Killer ants ( might be exaggerating) - they took a liking to me - and I'm now covered in several huge red blotches. Attractive.
So day 12 and we're still alive. Night bus to Guatemala city tonight though so keep posted. No news is bad news.
X
Thursday, 16 February 2012
A room with a mighty fine view
All in all yesterday was a non event - we made up for it today. Ever the bargain hunter, funnily enough the cheapest taxi driver happened to be the one with the cracked windscreen and no door handle on the inside of my door. I've said it before, I'll say it again - if it's my time it's my time :-)
Anyway we made it, hopped over a very easy border crossing and we're Guatemala. Woo Hoo. So I first heard about this country when I was 19 and doing camp america in the US. My Australian friend Mel wanted to go - we didn't make it together but Mel - you were the girl who inspired me to travel - I'm here for both of us a mere 16 years later.
First impressions? Very similar to Colombia - really lush countryside, beautiful climate. Has that chaotic side which I love about places- and motorcyclists wear cowboy hats. Gotta love that. Happily it's also full of Tuk tuk's.
Our destination for the day was Flores and it was happy faces all round when we bag a corner room with unbelievable views of the very beautiful lake Peten Itza.
So far so good Guatemala
X
Anyway we made it, hopped over a very easy border crossing and we're Guatemala. Woo Hoo. So I first heard about this country when I was 19 and doing camp america in the US. My Australian friend Mel wanted to go - we didn't make it together but Mel - you were the girl who inspired me to travel - I'm here for both of us a mere 16 years later.
First impressions? Very similar to Colombia - really lush countryside, beautiful climate. Has that chaotic side which I love about places- and motorcyclists wear cowboy hats. Gotta love that. Happily it's also full of Tuk tuk's.
Our destination for the day was Flores and it was happy faces all round when we bag a corner room with unbelievable views of the very beautiful lake Peten Itza.
So far so good Guatemala
X
Wednesday, 15 February 2012
For Paulo
A post for my brother Paul. San Ignacio, the town we're in to pass a bit of time before crossing into Guatemala, isn't the most attractive or exciting place. Imagine my delight then when we come across the amazing Ko-Ox Han-Nah ( let's go eat). Banana pancakes for breakfast massively reminds me of my lovely brother, and the whole of backpacker dominated Thailand. A cracking send off from Belize
( I promise future posts will be more interesting!)
X
( I promise future posts will be more interesting!)
X
Tuesday, 14 February 2012
Easy now...
A slow few days this end. Nothing especially exciting to report. We spent a relaxing day in the cute town of Placencia in southern Belize. We splashed out on a cabana right on the beach, ate amazing seafood ( go to Omar's if you ever find yourself there) and tried a few more rum cocktails.
Today we did a mammoth 3 bus journey to San ignacio, right on the border with Guatemala. The buses here are ace - chicken buses they call them - my dad would bloody love them. Oh and randomly several men came to wish us Happy Valentines.
Anyway this has zero entertainment value. I'll report back once we've been to Tikal in a few days. Loving the prospect of more jungle action. Howler monkeys get yourselves ready.
Over and out
X
Today we did a mammoth 3 bus journey to San ignacio, right on the border with Guatemala. The buses here are ace - chicken buses they call them - my dad would bloody love them. Oh and randomly several men came to wish us Happy Valentines.
Anyway this has zero entertainment value. I'll report back once we've been to Tikal in a few days. Loving the prospect of more jungle action. Howler monkeys get yourselves ready.
Over and out
X
Monday, 13 February 2012
Me roughing it? Really?
Proof that I can camp...did wake up with sand plastered across my face, so probably still more outdoor survival skills needed.
Anyway time for a latte now I'm back on land - there's only so much roughing it a girl can take.
X
Anyway time for a latte now I'm back on land - there's only so much roughing it a girl can take.
X
On a Ragga trip
A tough 3 days, and actually a somewhat surreal one. Did I really just spend 2 nights camping on the most beautiful desert islands, with a group of ace people and being served endless rum cocktails by the charming crew. I know I did as have various cuts, bruises, photos and funny memories to remind me.
So day 1 - we leave lovely caye caulker - and climb aboard the 58 ft Ragga Queen sailing boat for 3 days sailing down the reef to Placencia. The sun's out to greet us and calm sailing awaits. A pretty blissful day stopping for snorkelling , we reach our island paradise Rendezvous Caye around 4 pm. Dane takes us on a snorkelling trip around the island - we get back to erected tents, prawn ceviche and rum o'clock.
Sunset comes, more rum flows and we look up in wander at the unbelievable stars who had come to put on the evenings entertainment. Oh and then the moon rose on the horizon. Happy face.
This would have been a good point to Call it a night like Philippa. Alas I continue drinking endless bottles of rum with the crew ( hey I'm backpacking and it was free) along side new friends Aussie Rachel and English Helen. Don't ever let me go on an all inclusive holiday I really don't think it would suit me...........
Day 2 cooked breakfast on our island paradise - and off we go again. The next snorkelling spot and the girls are first in - simply stunning - schools of around 40 angel fish, some beautiful parrot fish. Generally amazing visibility and with joy I realise I've found some dive buddies while in Honduras.
The boys in true hunter gatherer style went spear fishing. Only the barracuda they speared not only escaped it escaped with the spear. Nice one Shane.
We arrive on Tobacco Caye and head off snorkelling again hoping to see a Manatee. Fruitless but did see a moray eel, lion fish and a school of cuttlefish. Not too shabby.
Tents up - it's time for coconut rum and pineapple juice, more of that prawn ceviche while we watch the local lads do some acrobatic diving off the pier.
The evening gets hazy, lobster is eaten. Klas shows off his enthusiasm for dancing. I show off my enthusiasm for more coconut rum. The locals show off their enthusiasm for garifuna drumming. A good night. More drunken falling into tents.
Day 3 - sadly we had a shocker of a night weather wise - the other girls wake up to 2 inches of water in their tent. The weather doesn't really improve. Klas is on hand with sea sickness pills. People aren't so keen on snorkelling today. On the positive the sails are out full force, and we get to see our captain kimani in action. In his words - 'now you get to see my baby move, before she was like a duck bobbing up in the ocean'
We arrive into Placencia and say our goodbye's.
Oh and as for the cheeky glint in the crew's eyes....one for the pub girls - mum's reading.
X
So day 1 - we leave lovely caye caulker - and climb aboard the 58 ft Ragga Queen sailing boat for 3 days sailing down the reef to Placencia. The sun's out to greet us and calm sailing awaits. A pretty blissful day stopping for snorkelling , we reach our island paradise Rendezvous Caye around 4 pm. Dane takes us on a snorkelling trip around the island - we get back to erected tents, prawn ceviche and rum o'clock.
Sunset comes, more rum flows and we look up in wander at the unbelievable stars who had come to put on the evenings entertainment. Oh and then the moon rose on the horizon. Happy face.
This would have been a good point to Call it a night like Philippa. Alas I continue drinking endless bottles of rum with the crew ( hey I'm backpacking and it was free) along side new friends Aussie Rachel and English Helen. Don't ever let me go on an all inclusive holiday I really don't think it would suit me...........
Day 2 cooked breakfast on our island paradise - and off we go again. The next snorkelling spot and the girls are first in - simply stunning - schools of around 40 angel fish, some beautiful parrot fish. Generally amazing visibility and with joy I realise I've found some dive buddies while in Honduras.
The boys in true hunter gatherer style went spear fishing. Only the barracuda they speared not only escaped it escaped with the spear. Nice one Shane.
We arrive on Tobacco Caye and head off snorkelling again hoping to see a Manatee. Fruitless but did see a moray eel, lion fish and a school of cuttlefish. Not too shabby.
Tents up - it's time for coconut rum and pineapple juice, more of that prawn ceviche while we watch the local lads do some acrobatic diving off the pier.
The evening gets hazy, lobster is eaten. Klas shows off his enthusiasm for dancing. I show off my enthusiasm for more coconut rum. The locals show off their enthusiasm for garifuna drumming. A good night. More drunken falling into tents.
Day 3 - sadly we had a shocker of a night weather wise - the other girls wake up to 2 inches of water in their tent. The weather doesn't really improve. Klas is on hand with sea sickness pills. People aren't so keen on snorkelling today. On the positive the sails are out full force, and we get to see our captain kimani in action. In his words - 'now you get to see my baby move, before she was like a duck bobbing up in the ocean'
We arrive into Placencia and say our goodbye's.
Oh and as for the cheeky glint in the crew's eyes....one for the pub girls - mum's reading.
X
Friday, 10 February 2012
Goodbye Caye Caulker
Our favourite Caye put on a good show this morning, and I'm pretty sad to be leaving this place.
If anyone finds themselves tempted to come to Belize for a few weeks I can't recommend Colindas Cabanas enough.
http://colindacabanas.com/about.html
I've got a feeling I'll be back
X
If anyone finds themselves tempted to come to Belize for a few weeks I can't recommend Colindas Cabanas enough.
http://colindacabanas.com/about.html
I've got a feeling I'll be back
X
Thursday, 9 February 2012
A smile improves your face value
So say the kids at caye caulker primary school.
Couldn't agree more - I've got a feeling the captain of the Ragga Queen learn't this well.
X
Couldn't agree more - I've got a feeling the captain of the Ragga Queen learn't this well.
X
The calm after the storm
3am and a massive thud in the cabana - we're both thinking intruder - turns out to be a coconut falling onto the roof. Like I said we're laughing on the face of danger this end.
So a stormy night on caye caulker but the upside was being greeted by this stunning light at 6am, and the storms blew away all the clouds which gave us all day to soak up the sun, swim off the pontoon and generally chill the hell out.
Don't be getting all jealous - we've got a serious few days ahead. Tomorrow we board the Ragga Queen for 3 days aboard a 53ft beauty of a yacht with 12 others for company. The crew look like they've got a cheeky glint in their eye. My snorkel's ready.
Let's go listen to endless repeats of No woman, no cry
X
So a stormy night on caye caulker but the upside was being greeted by this stunning light at 6am, and the storms blew away all the clouds which gave us all day to soak up the sun, swim off the pontoon and generally chill the hell out.
Don't be getting all jealous - we've got a serious few days ahead. Tomorrow we board the Ragga Queen for 3 days aboard a 53ft beauty of a yacht with 12 others for company. The crew look like they've got a cheeky glint in their eye. My snorkel's ready.
Let's go listen to endless repeats of No woman, no cry
X
Wednesday, 8 February 2012
Private jet time....almost
The day has consisted of getting a 6 person cesna out to the caye's. At one stage we were in private jet territory - alas an armed private security guard along with gun, knife and 2 foot long baton joined us. He was pretty much a smile free zone - we didn't ask him to take any photos.
After a joyous encounter with the beautiful baggage handling guy - he agrees to watch over our bags and we go and do a reccie of the larger ambergris caye. I say reccie I mean work out where the ferry leaves from, gush about how lucky we are and drink ( more) lime juice.
Tickets purchased, a 30 min ferry ride later and we arrive on the smaller, less developed caye caulker - to our $25/ night cabin. What a place - I'm writing this from a hammock at the end of a jetty with no one else bar Philippa around. It's like this is all a bit of a dream.
Oh and special mention to Avgi - we went to a local family restaurant for lunch - Marin's. I had a lobster burger and thought of you. Why choose between lobster and a burger hey.
So I'm going to end the gushing about the place now. It's nice, you get it.
On to the people....
The people of Belize kill it. They radiate happiness and just being around them makes me want to better person. So far this trip not a single snide, sarcastic comment has exited my slightly sunburnt lips. In fact I'm getting a bit sick of myself. I'm being too ****ing nice.
Honduras watch out - they don't call me heartless for nothing
After a joyous encounter with the beautiful baggage handling guy - he agrees to watch over our bags and we go and do a reccie of the larger ambergris caye. I say reccie I mean work out where the ferry leaves from, gush about how lucky we are and drink ( more) lime juice.
Tickets purchased, a 30 min ferry ride later and we arrive on the smaller, less developed caye caulker - to our $25/ night cabin. What a place - I'm writing this from a hammock at the end of a jetty with no one else bar Philippa around. It's like this is all a bit of a dream.
Oh and special mention to Avgi - we went to a local family restaurant for lunch - Marin's. I had a lobster burger and thought of you. Why choose between lobster and a burger hey.
So I'm going to end the gushing about the place now. It's nice, you get it.
On to the people....
The people of Belize kill it. They radiate happiness and just being around them makes me want to better person. So far this trip not a single snide, sarcastic comment has exited my slightly sunburnt lips. In fact I'm getting a bit sick of myself. I'm being too ****ing nice.
Honduras watch out - they don't call me heartless for nothing
(Monkey) business time
My mind's back to that flight of the conchord's song right now...then we sort out the recycling.
Anyway and I'm back....
So yesterday was a bit special - orange walk is a very friendly town - but I think it's fair to say not really a very attractive one. We came here for the jungle action and jungle action we got.
6 of us, a crazy but lovely looking driver Antonio and a tiny little speedboat - Don I'm not sure you'd have been happy with us - we didn't even put our life jackets on. Laughing in the face of danger I tell you.
Turns out Antonio has a very keen eye and the next two blissful hours were spent looking at crocodiles, heron's, iguanas, osprey's and lots and lots of other beautiful birds. Wasn't quite so keen on the bats we saw sleeping - we disturbed them and they flew way way too close for comfort.
We reached Lamanai and I got a sense for what a treat we have in store for the next few months. This is the most beautiful Mayan site - yet really very few tourists are here, and it all seems so easy. Perhaps speaking too soon.
The site itself is relatively small - but lots of the sites are still to be excavated - the mounds covered with grass we saw are all part of the complex. Our guide seemed to have the equivalent of a doctorate in Mayan civilisations - he could have been really interesting - unfortunately he went into major information overload which just left everyone a bit dumbfounded.
After a few hours we were reunited with Antonio and began the boat journey back. The light was now looking beautiful and there was an amazing reflection in the river's surface. Stunning. The surface was interrupted by the odd crocodile thrashing, a boa constrictor and some heron's taking flight. Dreamy.
Just before we got back we made a stop at the river's edge for a snack - a minute later the banana I'd been planning on eating was actually being passed to the cutest spider monkey who'd appeared next to me. One then actually sat in Philippa's lap. There are no photos of this, I was too busy laughing hysterically and wishing I'd found the time to have that rabies injection.
So yeah all in all Belize is doing it
X
Anyway and I'm back....
So yesterday was a bit special - orange walk is a very friendly town - but I think it's fair to say not really a very attractive one. We came here for the jungle action and jungle action we got.
6 of us, a crazy but lovely looking driver Antonio and a tiny little speedboat - Don I'm not sure you'd have been happy with us - we didn't even put our life jackets on. Laughing in the face of danger I tell you.
Turns out Antonio has a very keen eye and the next two blissful hours were spent looking at crocodiles, heron's, iguanas, osprey's and lots and lots of other beautiful birds. Wasn't quite so keen on the bats we saw sleeping - we disturbed them and they flew way way too close for comfort.
We reached Lamanai and I got a sense for what a treat we have in store for the next few months. This is the most beautiful Mayan site - yet really very few tourists are here, and it all seems so easy. Perhaps speaking too soon.
The site itself is relatively small - but lots of the sites are still to be excavated - the mounds covered with grass we saw are all part of the complex. Our guide seemed to have the equivalent of a doctorate in Mayan civilisations - he could have been really interesting - unfortunately he went into major information overload which just left everyone a bit dumbfounded.
After a few hours we were reunited with Antonio and began the boat journey back. The light was now looking beautiful and there was an amazing reflection in the river's surface. Stunning. The surface was interrupted by the odd crocodile thrashing, a boa constrictor and some heron's taking flight. Dreamy.
Just before we got back we made a stop at the river's edge for a snack - a minute later the banana I'd been planning on eating was actually being passed to the cutest spider monkey who'd appeared next to me. One then actually sat in Philippa's lap. There are no photos of this, I was too busy laughing hysterically and wishing I'd found the time to have that rabies injection.
So yeah all in all Belize is doing it
X
Tuesday, 7 February 2012
Messing about on the river....
So we've arrived - after a night of luxury in Miami which combined a trip to IHOP and watching the superbowl - we know how to live....
The flight over to Belize was pretty memorable - and we got to see how beautiful the coastline is. Belize ( ex British Honduras) has the second longest reef after the Great one. My god it looks beautiful - I can't wait to get exploring down there.
Ocean will have to wait though as we have a boat ride up the new river into the Mayan archaeological reserve of Lamanai. The boat ride is meant to be a lot exciting - Lamanai means submerged crocodile - I'm looking forward to seeing a few little brown snouts on the way up....
Talking of exciting - the chicken bus we got here from Belize City was wonderful. It instantly got me back in traveller mode - the driver squashing as many people on as he could, random boxes of fruit being passed down the bus. The Belizeans seem to be an utter delight - really friendly, happy and chilled. We feel very happy to be here.
In other news we drank the local Belikin beer today ( tasty), a chicken burrito from a shack with a woman with the most amazing smile ( off the scale good) AND I got bitten through my trousers several times by some blood sucking monster flies.
The Belizean insects have a taste for me.........
X
The flight over to Belize was pretty memorable - and we got to see how beautiful the coastline is. Belize ( ex British Honduras) has the second longest reef after the Great one. My god it looks beautiful - I can't wait to get exploring down there.
Ocean will have to wait though as we have a boat ride up the new river into the Mayan archaeological reserve of Lamanai. The boat ride is meant to be a lot exciting - Lamanai means submerged crocodile - I'm looking forward to seeing a few little brown snouts on the way up....
Talking of exciting - the chicken bus we got here from Belize City was wonderful. It instantly got me back in traveller mode - the driver squashing as many people on as he could, random boxes of fruit being passed down the bus. The Belizeans seem to be an utter delight - really friendly, happy and chilled. We feel very happy to be here.
In other news we drank the local Belikin beer today ( tasty), a chicken burrito from a shack with a woman with the most amazing smile ( off the scale good) AND I got bitten through my trousers several times by some blood sucking monster flies.
The Belizean insects have a taste for me.........
X
Sunday, 5 February 2012
And relax....
So bit of a hairy start - but Ali the taxi driver got me to Terminal 5.
In fact we were a bit lucky all round - I ran into Ken in the lounge ( literally, he got a right shock) and our flight was one of the few to depart.
So here we are.....
I'm in Miami girl......
In fact we were a bit lucky all round - I ran into Ken in the lounge ( literally, he got a right shock) and our flight was one of the few to depart.
So here we are.....
I'm in Miami girl......
Saturday, 4 February 2012
An alternative version of events....
Time to tell you about Philippa. She's lovely, or ace as I'd say. I couldn't be travelling with a more adventurous, kinder or more interesting person. Throughout all the prep for the trip it's been lovely having someone to share the load with. Crucially, given I'm pretty much the only person I know to have managed to get lost in Heathrow Terminal 5, she's generally very clever and will manage to get us from A to B.
Well apart from the snow that is. Philippa can you sort the snow for us please?
Oh and she also writes, very well in fact. Here:
http://pipster-centralamericaadventure.blogspot.com/
x
Well apart from the snow that is. Philippa can you sort the snow for us please?
Oh and she also writes, very well in fact. Here:
http://pipster-centralamericaadventure.blogspot.com/
x
Here come the girls.....
So we had a bit of a leaving party on Friday night. We'll probably have one when we come back. Nothing like milking what is essentially a holiday.....
Anyway I should have been on top form. Unfortunately I made the mistake of agreeing to go out with my team the night before. Cut to next scene we're dancing in Soho til 2am on a school night. Ho Hum.
The good news is what my lovely travelling companion was on good form ( attaching photographic evidence).
I'll guess I'll just have to save my 'form' for Belize
X
Anyway I should have been on top form. Unfortunately I made the mistake of agreeing to go out with my team the night before. Cut to next scene we're dancing in Soho til 2am on a school night. Ho Hum.
The good news is what my lovely travelling companion was on good form ( attaching photographic evidence).
I'll guess I'll just have to save my 'form' for Belize
X
The weather outside is frightful...
But inside it really is delightful.....
So departure day is here, and so is three inches of snow. I'm giving the odds on our flight leaving at 50/50 ( apparently heathrow are cancelling 1,200 - I'll leave others to comment on the shambles that is the UK's ability to deal with snow). Unfortunately i'm giving the odd's on me getting to Heathrow at about 1 in 10. The tube has already had enough and is out of action on the heathrow branch.
I know...this is turning out to be quite the adventure......
x
So departure day is here, and so is three inches of snow. I'm giving the odds on our flight leaving at 50/50 ( apparently heathrow are cancelling 1,200 - I'll leave others to comment on the shambles that is the UK's ability to deal with snow). Unfortunately i'm giving the odd's on me getting to Heathrow at about 1 in 10. The tube has already had enough and is out of action on the heathrow branch.
I know...this is turning out to be quite the adventure......
x
Subscribe to:
Comments (Atom)